CQ or Wr Panels - Page 3

Tonks4x4 · 08-01-12, 12:54 AM

The blue one needs modification as it is not right.
Here is some pics of the SWB

And with the panels on...

Acidburn · 08-01-12, 01:03 AM

Part of me wants you to drive the sport around without bonnet and wings to show all the hard work off lol.

You could depending how far you move the engine back use a brace bar and intercooler at the front to join the two sides together.

Get someone else to rent the van for you, just memorise their details

tommyboy · 08-01-12, 01:36 AM

Well the date for popping down is looking like mid to end of February.

gives me time to save up some pennies for a few bit's to pay off. Might stick my own car in for a service and get a courtesy car/van:P might work out better.

Acidburn · 08-01-12, 02:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tommyboy

Well the date for popping down is looking like mid to end of February.

gives me time to save up some pennies for a few bit's to pay off. Might stick my own car in for a service and get a courtesy car/van:P might work out better.

ok i'm in vegas in march lol so as long as its before or after that

tommyboy · 08-01-12, 03:05 AM

I shall keep you updated mate. The guy im buying the engine off insists it's gotta be gone by end of feb (fair play as im taking a wee while to pay for it)

if i dont make it down then maybe i can somehow get a courier to drop it off locally.

Lucky sod of to vegas when we have to put up with the snow and ice!!

Tim C · 08-01-12, 11:23 AM

Here's a picture of a Group 4 shell that was being rebuilt at Sooty's when we visited a few years back.

And couple of ours (plenty more if you need them).

As Brian says, if you go the front bar route, you don't need a front panel and the engine comes straight out the front on a trolley jack.

swb quattro · 08-01-12, 10:05 PM

sorry tommy my cars currently in storage and cant get access to it just now for pics but iam sure there will be some in the future you wont n eed your front panel if your going a2 anyway but aswell as the shorty iam restoring a wr so if it not to far gone i could maybe take it off you even just to try and cut and shut with mine with the good bits from yours

tommyboy · 08-01-12, 10:15 PM

Well you better get a project thread up and running lol. Well im looking at around £500 for the shell blasting and etch priming. Before that though im getting a rotisserie,Dremel,Transformer for my welder (got a normal plug socket on it at the moment. Not good enough) Oh and kick out the donkeys!!

Im nae cutting up my shell mate.

Rear 3/4's will go to Pete (Acidburn), Front panel i might keep and have a go at fabricating it !! why not eh lol

On another note, Bought a load of this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sheet-Meta...#ht_500wt_1156

Should do the trick. Going to get a vice and some simple bodywork tool's aswell (Clamp,s,grinder wheels,more tig wire) to start off with and see how we go.

tommyboy · 08-01-12, 10:18 PM

Thanks for the picture's mate. I have printed them off so i can use them as a reference point when cutting out the front panel.I suppose it will all make sense once it's there in front of me.

Anyone here able to give me idea's on fabricating the drivers side front subframe mount area?. Is it as simple as cutting a template out,grinding back as much as possible. then putting new metal in?.

There the possibility of pre made repair patches??

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim C

Here's a picture of a Group 4 shell that was being rebuilt at Sooty's when we visited a few years back.

And couple of ours (plenty more if you need them).

As Brian says, if you go the front bar route, you don't need a front panel and the engine comes straight out the front on a trolley jack.

Tonks4x4 · 08-01-12, 11:10 PM

I take it that you are getting it blasted now first before you do anything.

If so this will show you how far back you need to cut the steel.

This picture is not of an Audi but before blasting there was only a small hole, but once it was blasted it revealed all this lot.

It will be the same, on your shell but don't dispare as once you have done it, you will have done it properly and should last a minimum of 20 years before it needs doing again

08-01-12, 12:54 AM	#21
Tonks4x4 4 ring whore! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Huthwaite, Nottinghamshire Posts: 2,607	The blue one needs modification as it is not right. Here is some pics of the SWB And with the panels on... __________________ http://www.tonks4x4.com

08-01-12, 01:03 AM	#22
Acidburn The original sin Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Swindon wiltshire Posts: 2,354	Part of me wants you to drive the sport around without bonnet and wings to show all the hard work off lol. You could depending how far you move the engine back use a brace bar and intercooler at the front to join the two sides together. Get someone else to rent the van for you, just memorise their details __________________ 80 tdi avant

08-01-12, 11:23 AM	#26
Tim C Senior Member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Poole, Dorset, England Posts: 1,729	Here's a picture of a Group 4 shell that was being rebuilt at Sooty's when we visited a few years back. And couple of ours (plenty more if you need them). As Brian says, if you go the front bar route, you don't need a front panel and the engine comes straight out the front on a trolley jack. __________________ quattro RR - crystal silver quattro WR - 1981 Lombard RAC rally recreation (50% share) Nissan Navara - tow car / service vehicle for above A4 2.0T quattro s-line special edition - wife's http://www.flickr.com/photos/37654549@N06/sets/

08-01-12, 11:10 PM	#30
Tonks4x4 4 ring whore! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Huthwaite, Nottinghamshire Posts: 2,607	I take it that you are getting it blasted now first before you do anything. If so this will show you how far back you need to cut the steel. This picture is not of an Audi but before blasting there was only a small hole, but once it was blasted it revealed all this lot. It will be the same, on your shell but don't dispare as once you have done it, you will have done it properly and should last a minimum of 20 years before it needs doing again __________________ http://www.tonks4x4.com

08-01-12, 01:36 AM	#23
tommyboy Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Turriff.Aberdeenshire.Scotland Posts: 1,053	Well the date for popping down is looking like mid to end of February. gives me time to save up some pennies for a few bit's to pay off. Might stick my own car in for a service and get a courtesy car/van:P might work out better.

08-01-12, 03:05 AM	#25
tommyboy Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Turriff.Aberdeenshire.Scotland Posts: 1,053	I shall keep you updated mate. The guy im buying the engine off insists it's gotta be gone by end of feb (fair play as im taking a wee while to pay for it) if i dont make it down then maybe i can somehow get a courier to drop it off locally. Lucky sod of to vegas when we have to put up with the snow and ice!!

08-01-12, 10:05 PM	#27
swb quattro Grown up member Join Date: Jan 2012 Posts: 171	sorry tommy my cars currently in storage and cant get access to it just now for pics but iam sure there will be some in the future you wont n eed your front panel if your going a2 anyway but aswell as the shorty iam restoring a wr so if it not to far gone i could maybe take it off you even just to try and cut and shut with mine with the good bits from yours

08-01-12, 10:15 PM	#28
tommyboy Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Turriff.Aberdeenshire.Scotland Posts: 1,053	Well you better get a project thread up and running lol. Well im looking at around £500 for the shell blasting and etch priming. Before that though im getting a rotisserie,Dremel,Transformer for my welder (got a normal plug socket on it at the moment. Not good enough) Oh and kick out the donkeys!! Im nae cutting up my shell mate. Rear 3/4's will go to Pete (Acidburn), Front panel i might keep and have a go at fabricating it !! why not eh lol On another note, Bought a load of this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sheet-Meta...#ht_500wt_1156 Should do the trick. Going to get a vice and some simple bodywork tool's aswell (Clamp,s,grinder wheels,more tig wire) to start off with and see how we go.