No spark - 1984 Audi 80 Sport

[jampublic]

Struggling to get my Audi 80 to start, the engine turns over but it will not start

Recently added a new starter solenoid, new HT leads, new spark plugs, new ignition coil, new distributor cap & new rotor arm.

Have I managed to get the wrong distributor cap & rotor arm?

It has always been an issue trying to get the right parts for this car, any other Sport owners had a similar issue with finding parts or more importantly the right parts.

[mikes2]

No spark from coil or no spark at the spark plugs ?

[Sie!]

Originally Posted by jampublic

Struggling to get my Audi 80 to start, the engine turns over but it will not start

Recently added a new starter solenoid, new HT leads, new spark plugs, new ignition coil, new distributor cap & new rotor arm.

Have I managed to get the wrong distributor cap & rotor arm?

It has always been an issue trying to get the right parts for this car, any other Sport owners had a similar issue with finding parts or more importantly the right parts.

Can’t say I’m 100% familiar with the pre-facelift sport, but might be worth checking the wiring to the hall sender at the side of the distributor, and also checking the integrity of the wiring to the coil... I know from experiencing something similar to what you describe, being caused by hidden broken wires at the connectors.

Also, have a look under the dash (again not 100% sure on your year of 80), but behind the dash at the drivers side you will likely find an ignition control module, check the wires to this and it’s condition (it sits on a metal heat sink).

Daft question, but do you ever recall seeing a very slight (very slight) jump/pulse in the rev counter when the ignition is initially turned? Mine has always done it, I’m not sure if they all do? When I had a similar issue this stopped happening and I got no spark, as soon as I fixed the aforementioned broken wires it began again and the car fired without issue - like I say I’m not sure if they all do it, but that would be a good signal and point towards a hall sender/coil/ICM/wire issue.

Hope that is of some use to you, frustrating I know, but it’s often just working through each part methodically, trouble is it often involves buying surplus bits until you find the problem... not like these things are at scrap yards anymore unfortunately.

[Tun]

Has the car started since you replaced all the parts?

[jampublic]

Originally Posted by mikes2

No spark from coil or no spark at the spark plugs ?

Spark at the coil yes, I should double check today.

I was thinking if I got the wrong rotor or distributor cap, they wouldn't connect and that would explain not spark at the plugs.

How would I find the correct part numbers for this model?

[jampublic]

Originally Posted by Sie!

Can’t say I’m 100% familiar with the pre-facelift sport, but might be worth checking the wiring to the hall sender at the side of the distributor, and also checking the integrity of the wiring to the coil... I know from experiencing something similar to what you describe, being caused by hidden broken wires at the connectors.

Also, have a look under the dash (again not 100% sure on your year of 80), but behind the dash at the drivers side you will likely find an ignition control module, check the wires to this and it’s condition (it sits on a metal heat sink).

Daft question, but do you ever recall seeing a very slight (very slight) jump/pulse in the rev counter when the ignition is initially turned? Mine has always done it, I’m not sure if they all do? When I had a similar issue this stopped happening and I got no spark, as soon as I fixed the aforementioned broken wires it began again and the car fired without issue - like I say I’m not sure if they all do it, but that would be a good signal and point towards a hall sender/coil/ICM/wire issue.

Hope that is of some use to you, frustrating I know, but it’s often just working through each part methodically, trouble is it often involves buying surplus bits until you find the problem... not like these things are at scrap yards anymore unfortunately.

Those last two points sound familiar, I have replaced the ignition module in the dashboard a few years ago. There has always been some electrical gremlins in this car.

I also noticed that strange speedo response when I last tried to start it.

[jampublic]

Originally Posted by Tun

Has the car started since you replaced all the parts?

No sir, hoping an incorrectly ordered cap and rotor is the issue. I am hoping to email a supplier today with my VIN and see if they can confirm / double check for me.

[tractor Dave]

Originally Posted by jampublic

No sir, hoping an incorrectly ordered cap and rotor is the issue. I am hoping to email a supplier today with my VIN and see if they can confirm / double check for me.

Clean your old rotor arm and try that. Then try the old cap. Process of elimination is required.

[BackintheFold]

Clean your old rotor arm and try that. Then try the old cap. Process of elimination is required.

THIS!
Only ever replace one thing at a time whenever possible (total rebuild would make it hard!).
Go back to what you have done since it last worked.

If you were getting a spark at the plugs, you could check your firing order is correct, and starting at the correct plug.

Also, the rev counter jumping on ignition is something I remember from my ownership of similar cars.

[mikes2]

Kind of points to possibly a hall sender issue or as hinted above a wiring fault

Were the parts replaced for non starting or was it part of a service.

You can use 7zap.com to find the part numbers. For a 1984 DZ engine I see 026 905 225 for the rotor arm and 113 905 207 C for the cap

The cap is a common part to all the 4 cyl cars of that era