Sticky clutch pedal ?

[spaarky]

Anyone had experience with a sticky clutch pedal?

It's only just started, but when you take your foot off the clutch, the pedal only returns halfway. Can be flicked up to normal position quite easily, but is irritating. Seems more willing to come up all the way once you've driven a few miles. Have tried lubricating the pedal linkage etc, but no noticeable difference. Clutch works just fine, it's the pedal that's a worry.

On another car I'd be thinking clutch return spring, but I can't see one anywhere. Seriously hoping this is not the first symptom of a knackered clutch slave cylinder . . .

[Hoyle]

Sounds very much to me like the clutch needs re-bleeding.

[Si_CoupeGT]

Mine only needed bleeding when I had similar symptoms, it's been fine since. To do the job properly though you'll need a pressure bleeder similar to this:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001KTFIW...SIN=B001KTFIWA

[Hoyle]

As above, it's much safer and easier to use an easi-bleed or similar kit.

[Phil Payne]

Originally Posted by Hoyle

As above, it's much safer and easier to use an easi-bleed or similar kit.

Depends on the state of the clutch fluid reservoir. If it's cracked an Eazi-Bleed can be quite spectacular.

[andydunn2]

Originally Posted by Phil Payne

Depends on the state of the clutch fluid reservoir. If it's cracked an Eazi-Bleed can be quite spectacular.

Yep, been there done that........lesson learned...

[Phil Payne]

Originally Posted by Hoyle

Sounds very much to me like the clutch needs re-bleeding.

I don't know about all other models, but on the ur-quattro there is an issue with the clutch master cylinder being mounted at an angle. The feed hose from the fluid reservoir enters the master cylinder at an angle - the cylinder is rotated almost 45 degrees around its long axis. This means that any air in the cylinder will not automatically go back up the feed hose and be replaced by fluid.

So it's very important that the pushrod is adjusted so that the pedal makes the piston sweep the whole length of the cylinder to expell any air. When I swap a master cylinder that's been performing well up to the failure, I generally use the existing pushrod because it's usually adjusted to the right length for bleeding.

If you bleed a clutch a couple of times and still have a problem, check the pushrod and especially check that the locking nut hasn't come loose.

[spaarky]

Many thanks for the suggestions people. I'm hoping a bleed will help - thing is, I bled the clutch a few months ago and have had no problems until last week, so I'm wondering what could have changed. The clutch shares a reservoir with the brakes (which still work fine) so shouldn't be a sudden loss of fluid from a crack there. Will definitely be checking the lock nut on the pushrod first . . .

[spaarky]

Found a small bulge in the flexi hose by the clutch slave cylinder, slightly damp around it too. Only Audi had the hose but £84!!!. Fitted it, pig of a job, no access. Hose goes from slave cylinder on tranny to clutch master cylinder in engine bay next to brake servo. Have bled the system with a non return hose as I've done successfully before, until just fluid coming out - got through 1 litre of new fluid.

No clutch pedal.

I don't understand how I can bleed a litre of fluid through the circuit and still have no pressure in the system.

Anyone got any thoughts? Desperate now - need the car to get to work on Monday . . .

[spaarky]

Quick update - eventually replaced the clutch master cylinder as well & all is sorted. Master cylinder costs £120 from Audi, £35 from GSF. Thank you GSF . . .