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Old 15-04-09, 03:50 PM   #1
poopcoupe
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Default Timing Belt

Just a quick question, I still havent got to the bottom of my slight overheating problem. I have changed stat, Flushed system and all the usual things. I need to change my cam belt so is it worth changing water pump whilst Im doing it. May this be the problem?
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Old 15-04-09, 03:58 PM   #2
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would certainly be worth taking it off and having a good look. Make its clear and turning ok. In my experience it's usually the bearings that play up and they get noisy. I'm not fully concvinced it would be a cause of overheating per say. When you say slight overheating what does that mean? hat are the symptoms?
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Old 15-04-09, 04:03 PM   #3
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If Im driving at over 40 ish and dont get caught in traffic the temp never moves over 90. But as soon as I get stuck she gets really hot. One way of getting her to cool down is to put the heater on full hot on speed 3 then she seems to cool down. As soon as I get moving again she goes back to normal? Fan kicks in but not for long and I know this sounds funny makes a farty noise from passenger foot well when cuts out??????
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Old 15-04-09, 04:05 PM   #4
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if the timing belt is coming off anyway, it's a good idea to change the water pump at the same time. It works out at about £25 after exchange for the pump.
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Old 15-04-09, 04:58 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poopcoupe View Post
If Im driving at over 40 ish and dont get caught in traffic the temp never moves over 90. But as soon as I get stuck she gets really hot. One way of getting her to cool down is to put the heater on full hot on speed 3 then she seems to cool down. As soon as I get moving again she goes back to normal? Fan kicks in but not for long and I know this sounds funny makes a farty noise from passenger foot well when cuts out??????
Hello, just some other thoughts to add to the mix:-
a) air lock
b) rad core old & decaying causing poss blockage, but with enough through-flow cooling when on the move.
c) blockage elsewhere, but this usually on carb models where water passes through carb.
d) are all hoses o/e? some non o/e made in mumbogumboland don't hold up when very hot or don't have correct shape so water does not flow properly around the system.
Cheers.
PS: farty noise might be sound of relay, although ones for fan are normally in the fuse box, not where oil warning buzzer is (for example), in footwell.
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Old 15-04-09, 05:34 PM   #6
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i have always found its an air lock fill the system.fill up from the top hose not the expantion tank. and leave the heater controll on hot so water flows all around the system .
the top hose should be hotter than the bottom when running .
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Old 15-04-09, 05:46 PM   #7
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is the coolant at the correct distilation?

as I under stand it, if too much water is in there then the coolant cannot "cool" or discipate engine heat as quickly as if the consentration is right?

yea change the water pump per say and thermostat while your at it.
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Old 15-04-09, 06:46 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikes2 View Post
if the timing belt is coming off anyway, it's a good idea to change the water pump at the same time. It works out at about £25 after exchange for the pump.
Dont forget the roller while you are at it
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Old 15-04-09, 06:58 PM   #9
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I'd hazard on it being an airlock or possibly thermostat not opening
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Old 15-04-09, 07:31 PM   #10
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check the fins on the rad. are not corroded away, also that the shields that direct the air to the rad are in place

Yes, if you are doing the cambelt change the water pump as well
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