Best way to tackle RUST

Sie! · 28-04-08, 04:39 PM

With summer on its way (We all hope!), I want to start nursing my Audi's bodywork back to health, well as best I can.

We tried to do little bits last year, but even the bist we seemed to have 'already done' are beginning to bubble again.

What do you guys recommend to be the best form of treatment for parts that are starting to bubble back up, and bits that really need doing soon?

I have included some photos below of the type of thing I mean, im totally new to this game so any help, tips and guidence would be greatly appreciated.

I know this looks really bad, but when you rub it down it does go back to being silver metal.

Many thanks in advance for any help.

Sie!

amanda · 28-04-08, 04:49 PM

hmmm was told the only way to get rid of rust, is cut it out to clean metal and replace with new

Coxy · 28-04-08, 04:51 PM

or go on the Frosts website and by some Metal ready! superb stuff!

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.a...(20oz,%20590ml)

86audicoupe · 28-04-08, 05:11 PM

Hello

I've been told (and have used) Hammerite Kurust. It reacts with the rust and converts iron oxide to stable iron. Really good stuff!

It's not a permanant fix, but I've used it on another car and it's lasted two years so far! Give that a go.

Will

Gordon WR · 28-04-08, 05:27 PM

Combination, big chunks need cutting out and rebuilding with fresh metal, but some areas that were lightly pitted and unable to be cut out ( under the bonnet ) I used Kurust to stabilise it.

Octanejunkie · 30-04-08, 09:35 AM

Clean back to bare metal with angle grinder wire brush, coat the whole exposed area with Kurust or similar, then etch prime, then prime/filler prime, then flat back to satisfactory finish before finally applying top coat and lacquer. This should last well.
Don't leave exposed metal naked. As soon as you've brushed, get the Kurust on (not too thick), wait for it to dry, then get it primed and covered as soon as possible.
The combination of the Kurust and etch primer will give it the best grab and possibility of resisting further rust.

Take your time and ensure everything is coated and theres no way for water to seep into your repair area later on. I've repaired loads of surface rust in this way, with no problems.

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28-04-08, 04:49 PM	#2
amanda quattro hussie!! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: doin' it on all fours!! Posts: 5,993	hmmm was told the only way to get rid of rust, is cut it out to clean metal and replace with new

28-04-08, 04:51 PM	#3
Coxy 4 Ring Mafia Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: on the side of a hill in Shropshire! Posts: 28,215	or go on the Frosts website and by some Metal ready! superb stuff! http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.a...(20oz,%20590ml)

28-04-08, 05:11 PM	#4
86audicoupe Classic Audi Pervert! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Dorset Posts: 2,182	Hello I've been told (and have used) Hammerite Kurust. It reacts with the rust and converts iron oxide to stable iron. Really good stuff! It's not a permanant fix, but I've used it on another car and it's lasted two years so far! Give that a go. Will

28-04-08, 05:27 PM	#5
Gordon WR Grown up member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Chester Posts: 781	Combination, big chunks need cutting out and rebuilding with fresh metal, but some areas that were lightly pitted and unable to be cut out ( under the bonnet ) I used Kurust to stabilise it.

30-04-08, 09:35 AM	#6
Octanejunkie Grown up member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Clevedon, North Somerset Posts: 293	Clean back to bare metal with angle grinder wire brush, coat the whole exposed area with Kurust or similar, then etch prime, then prime/filler prime, then flat back to satisfactory finish before finally applying top coat and lacquer. This should last well. Don't leave exposed metal naked. As soon as you've brushed, get the Kurust on (not too thick), wait for it to dry, then get it primed and covered as soon as possible. The combination of the Kurust and etch primer will give it the best grab and possibility of resisting further rust. Take your time and ensure everything is coated and theres no way for water to seep into your repair area later on. I've repaired loads of surface rust in this way, with no problems.