Exhaust manifold removal. 2.1 KE Engine

Karl_CLCoupe · 17-10-09, 06:16 PM

Hi guys, getting round to doing the oily bits the latest acquisition needs to get back on the road. I've managed to get all the tensioners and belts off ready for replacement along with the cambelt, and I'm tackling the headgasket at the same time.

I've removed everything now bar the inlet manifold and the exhaust manifold. My problem is this. I can't gain access to 3 bolts on the underside of the exhaust manifold as the driver's side engine mount is in the way. So I thought I'd try and be clever and remove the head with inlet and exhaust manifolds and remove those on the bench.

Thats where I faced the next problem. I have managed to remove 3 of the 4 manifold to downpipe nuts, but one I just can't gain access to as the battery tray gets in the way, and I cant attack it from underneath as the subframe is in the way, and sticking a uni joint on an extension still wont allow me to undo it.

How have you guys got around this on your endeavours? Will I just have to bite the bullet and remove the engine mount?

Thanks in advance.

K.

pimpdriver · 17-10-09, 06:49 PM

HAve you tried a wobble bar extension?

Karl_CLCoupe · 17-10-09, 07:05 PM

I've tried a wobble bar as well. I just can't seem to get enough downward force on the nut to crack it. All that happens is the socket 'jumps' off the nut.

I had a quick feel around to see if the nut was rounded, and it seems ok, but resorted to using a nut splitter on it, which fortunately, or unfortunately, whichever way you look at it, only managed to split the lower half of the nut.

I wish the battery tray was a bolt in panel!

BIGGYIN · 17-10-09, 07:46 PM

Can,t you tackle it from below??

Karl_CLCoupe · 17-10-09, 07:58 PM

I've tried, but the subframe obscures access to the downpipe. I've had to go in through a gap between the chassis leg and the subframe and the rest of the exhaust system itself. It's cramped to say the least! Trying it through a hole in the wishbone wouldn't even allow us to get onto the nut squarely.

BIGGYIN · 17-10-09, 09:25 PM

Ive done it on my q90,changing the down-pipe.I had it up on small ramps,not very much room under car.Not alot of room for leverage.
One nut i couldn,t see,so I had to feel my way around.I tightened them all up finger tight,then i ran the engine to warm up pipe.Then the fun began,to tighten the nuts up the last bit.(With the pipe hot)
Really you need,overhead ramps.Lot easier to work and you don,t have to keep your head up off the floor.(sore neck,for days)
I don,t envy you.

(I,ve got it all to do,when i change my system from steel to stainless steel.(on blue q90))

mikes2 · 18-10-09, 01:28 AM

usually the way around this is to convert down to 3/8" extension bars which will give clearance past the subframe. You can then step back up to 1/2" drive once you've cleared the subframe.

The alternative is to drop the subframe slightly by loosening the bolts a little

17-10-09, 07:05 PM	#3
Karl_CLCoupe Mad about VAG Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Derby Posts: 59	I've tried a wobble bar as well. I just can't seem to get enough downward force on the nut to crack it. All that happens is the socket 'jumps' off the nut. I had a quick feel around to see if the nut was rounded, and it seems ok, but resorted to using a nut splitter on it, which fortunately, or unfortunately, whichever way you look at it, only managed to split the lower half of the nut. I wish the battery tray was a bolt in panel! __________________ VW nut, just turned Audi! '84 Audi Coupe GT5E '86 VW Polo Coupe S '90 VW Golf GL/GTi Conversion '93 VW Polo CL/GT Coupe Conversion

17-10-09, 07:58 PM	#5
Karl_CLCoupe Mad about VAG Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Derby Posts: 59	I've tried, but the subframe obscures access to the downpipe. I've had to go in through a gap between the chassis leg and the subframe and the rest of the exhaust system itself. It's cramped to say the least! Trying it through a hole in the wishbone wouldn't even allow us to get onto the nut squarely. __________________ VW nut, just turned Audi! '84 Audi Coupe GT5E '86 VW Polo Coupe S '90 VW Golf GL/GTi Conversion '93 VW Polo CL/GT Coupe Conversion

18-10-09, 01:28 AM	#7
mikes2 4 ring whore! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Polmont Posts: 2,617	usually the way around this is to convert down to 3/8" extension bars which will give clearance past the subframe. You can then step back up to 1/2" drive once you've cleared the subframe. The alternative is to drop the subframe slightly by loosening the bolts a little __________________ 1991 90 quattro 20v sport 1991 90 quattro

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Need Exhaust From Manifold	tommyboy	Engine	4	19-07-09 10:32 PM
Exhaust Manifold	andy e	Engine	0	29-03-09 01:03 AM
Dialynx exhaust manifold.	4v6	General Chat	12	02-03-09 09:57 PM
exhaust manifold VW 2.4d I-5 non-turbo	knobstar	Parts For Sale	0	10-09-08 04:35 PM
Ur exhaust manifold	4v6	Parts Wanted	15	07-02-08 06:04 PM

17-10-09, 06:49 PM	#2
pimpdriver Devon Pastie Muncher Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Calne Wiltshire Posts: 7,530	HAve you tried a wobble bar extension?

17-10-09, 07:46 PM	#4
BIGGYIN 4 ring whore! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Merseyside Posts: 7,976	Can,t you tackle it from below??

17-10-09, 09:25 PM	#6
BIGGYIN 4 ring whore! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Merseyside Posts: 7,976	Ive done it on my q90,changing the down-pipe.I had it up on small ramps,not very much room under car.Not alot of room for leverage. One nut i couldn,t see,so I had to feel my way around.I tightened them all up finger tight,then i ran the engine to warm up pipe.Then the fun began,to tighten the nuts up the last bit.(With the pipe hot) Really you need,overhead ramps.Lot easier to work and you don,t have to keep your head up off the floor.(sore neck,for days) I don,t envy you. (I,ve got it all to do,when i change my system from steel to stainless steel.(on blue q90))