Cam belt change

[Deddly]

Hi, I've searched the forums but I can't find any posts that match, so...

I'm going to change the timing belt on my 1993 Audi 80 2.0E 4cyl.

I have bought the timing belt kit and it comes with the belt and the tensioner. I thought it would come with some other belts as well since I asked as the shop for everything I needed for a cam-belt change... Well I don't know, should I change the alternator belt and the other one too (what is that, a steering server drive belt?) ?

The shop gave me some pretty good instructions, but it's designed for a mechanics' workshop so I don't understand all of it. It also give me information on how tight the bolts should be - how important is that - I don't have the tool to measure it (although I might be able to borrow one)?

So basically, does anyone have some nice easy-to-read instructions for this job? I've not done a cam belt change before, so be easy on me please! Thanks for any help you can give.

--
Ed

[Nigel Conniford]

Not sure with four pots, but when we do a cam belt change on the 5 potters its always worth doing a water pump change as these are little buggers for failing not long after you done the change, (Audi crappie pumps )

[Deddly]

That's funny because when I ordered this kit I was sure I'd have to buy a water pump too, but they said it's not needed on this car...

--
Ed

[4v6]

Originally Posted by Deddly

Hi, I've searched the forums but I can't find any posts that match, so...

I'm going to change the timing belt on my 1993 Audi 80 2.0E 4cyl.

I have bought the timing belt kit and it comes with the belt and the tensioner. I thought it would come with some other belts as well since I asked as the shop for everything I needed for a cam-belt change... Well I don't know, should I change the alternator belt and the other one too (what is that, a steering server drive belt?) ?

The shop gave me some pretty good instructions, but it's designed for a mechanics' workshop so I don't understand all of it. It also give me information on how tight the bolts should be - how important is that - I don't have the tool to measure it (although I might be able to borrow one)?

So basically, does anyone have some nice easy-to-read instructions for this job? I've not done a cam belt change before, so be easy on me please! Thanks for any help you can give.

--
Ed

Hi Ed, four pot engine is basically the same as fitted to VWgolfs of various years.

Regarding the bolt tensions; If i were you, id invest in a torque wrench that will suffice for your needs, its not worth taking a risk on either overtightening or undertightening bolts in such a critical area as the cam belt drive system.

Quick and dirty method for doing the timing;

Turn the engine to TDC ( theres an "O") mark on the flywheel that lines up with either a cutout or a pin/marker, or look at the crank pulley end and set it to the zero (0) mark on the pointer.
Once youve done that, take a look at the rear of the cam belt cover (at the top of the engine) and look for a little cutout in the back of it.
If the timing is correct, youll see a little dimple -like a dot mark on the rim of the cam gear, and this should be almost level with the top of the head surface where the cam cover bolts down.

If it is you can go ahead and remove the crank pulley ( four bolts iirc-no need to remove the big one! ) the cam cover and the lower cover.
If its not, then turn the engine over by hand 180 degrees in its normal direction of rotation (clockwise).

If you take a look at the pulleys, theres a little arrow mark on the intermediate shaft ( the one that drives the dizzy and oil pump) and this will be pointing almost directly at the cam pulley zero mark.

Then you can remove the dissy cap and have a look at the rotor arm- it should be pointing to a line thats scribed into the body of it.

Once youre happy that it all lines up, go ahead and slacken the tensioner and take the belt off.

Putting it back together youll need to make sure the pulleys all stay lined up and that the rotor arm is pointing to its line, otherwise itll never run properly as the timing will be out.

Once youve got it all back together, turn the engine over BY HAND, twice in its normal rotation, then check the marks to see they all are lined up, if they are, go ahead and crank the engine, if theyre not go back and re-align the timing marks.

Oh, and if for any reason, you feel the engine go tight , as in jammed, STOP! Do not turn the engine over as it means piston to valve contact and that means destruction!

Finally, id suggest getting a manual to familiarise yourself with the components and the procedure, itll save you many hours of frustration later on.

Tony.

[Octanejunkie]

All good points above.

If you are not planning on doing too much hard core engine work, might be better to borrow a torque wrench. Cheap ones are rubbish, and a decent one is quite a big outlay just for one job.
Also, get yourself a top end gasket set if you don't already have one and use the opportunity to replace any gaskets and seals that you can get to.
Changing the water pump is a very good idea. Nothing more infuriating than reassembling an engine, only to find you've got to tear it apart again a fortnight later.
Make sure you've got a good supply of clean rags, WD40, and plenty of degraser. Its important to keep things clean. Clean each part as you remove it. Not only will you minimze the risk of getting crap into your engine, but it'll look nice and tidy upon reassembly.
Its better to take your time and spend a few extra quid now rather than bodge it, and wonder each time you drive the car whether it'll be ok.
Look on flea bay or go to your local boot sale and see if you can get a Haynes manual. Cam belt changes are normally well written and easy to follow in these.

[4v6]

Originally Posted by Octanejunkie

All good points above.

If you are not planning on doing too much hard core engine work, might be better to borrow a torque wrench. Cheap ones are rubbish, and a decent one is quite a big outlay just for one job.
Also, get yourself a top end gasket set if you don't already have one and use the opportunity to replace any gaskets and seals that you can get to.
Changing the water pump is a very good idea. Nothing more infuriating than reassembling an engine, only to find you've got to tear it apart again a fortnight later.
Make sure you've got a good supply of clean rags, WD40, and plenty of degraser. Its important to keep things clean. Clean each part as you remove it. Not only will you minimze the risk of getting crap into your engine, but it'll look nice and tidy upon reassembly.
Its better to take your time and spend a few extra quid now rather than bodge it, and wonder each time you drive the car whether it'll be ok.
Look on flea bay or go to your local boot sale and see if you can get a Haynes manual. Cam belt changes are normally well written and easy to follow in these.

Couldnt agree more!

[steveb]

The water pump is not run by the cam belt on the 4 cyl engines so no need to replace like you do on the 5cyls

Timing belt on the 4cyl engine is very easy you can doin half an hour if you've done one before no water to drain either.