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Registered
Members: 43,049 | Total Threads: 40,086 | Total Posts: 471,041 Currently Active Users: 3455 (3 members and 3452 guests) Welcome to our newest member, Josephnep |
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#1 | |
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Trickster
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Heckling from the cheap seats, Phnom Penh, KoW
Posts: 7,020
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In the process of pulling the rear diff out of the donor car. Hit a snag. The bloody propshaft will not let go. 6 bolts attach it to the diff flange, and they all came out pretty easily. At the other end, same arrangement attaches to the gearbox (only, in this case, one of the bolts is shagged! Doh!!)
I can't see any damage/distortion to the mating flange. It is a little rusty, so I have some penetrating spray on it. Thoughts/suggestions/what have I missed?
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I wish they would keep the damned Chinese away now that I can go home, so that I can enjoy Fish amok and a draught Angkor |
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#2 |
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Super Moderator
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Sissix-by-the-sea
Posts: 15,218
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Gas Axe....
(heat).... Not scrappage.... ![]()
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1985 WR quattro, 1985 20vT RallyRep, 1993 MTM ABY S2 Avant. 2010 S3 Sportback.
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#3 |
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4 ring whore!
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Merseyside
Posts: 7,976
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Then spray,some more.Heat might,draw it in?
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q90 B2 Type 85 - q90 B2 Type 85-PROJECT-ABY 20vt KARL. Injection is nice but I'd rather be blown |
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#4 |
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Trickster
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Heckling from the cheap seats, Phnom Penh, KoW
Posts: 7,020
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Sadly, no gas axe available, and not likely to be.
Was thinking to attack it with my raychem gun tomorrow. That might work. bloody typical- stuck solid one end, and a bugger bolt tuvver. Still, one or other should release tomorrow.
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I wish they would keep the damned Chinese away now that I can go home, so that I can enjoy Fish amok and a draught Angkor |
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#5 |
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4 ring whore!
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Merseyside
Posts: 7,976
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Maybe carefully,dremmel it?
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q90 B2 Type 85 - q90 B2 Type 85-PROJECT-ABY 20vt KARL. Injection is nice but I'd rather be blown |
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#6 |
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Trickster
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Heckling from the cheap seats, Phnom Penh, KoW
Posts: 7,020
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It's more a matter of convenience right now. If necessary, I shall simply drop the transmission on the drive and roll the car away over the top, and attack it at leisure.
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I wish they would keep the damned Chinese away now that I can go home, so that I can enjoy Fish amok and a draught Angkor |
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#7 |
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4 ring whore!
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,188
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common 'problem' on all prop shafts I've removed. Take a piece of wood and a large hammer, place the wood on the head of the prop shaft and use the hammer to smash on the wood. Should come off without damaging it.
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#8 |
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Grown up member
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Stirling
Posts: 861
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Sounds like the same issue I had on my s2, all bolts removed and it would not drop off, I had to shock it free with a big hammer
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2005 350z GT Sold-1992 3B S2 coupe-RS2+, 996s, konis, forged rods, rear torsen.... Sold-1993 ABY coupe |
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#9 | |
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Banned
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 1,809
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Quote:
On both ends it's quite normal to have to unseat the flange with a cold chisel and a few gentle taps. Getting the boss to release takes more force - I have a 500gm copper mallet. There's nothing holding it but stiction. |
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#10 |
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Grown up member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: South Cumbria
Posts: 122
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both my front shafts and my prop to gearbox had a number of knackered bolts.
I used the angle grinder to remove the tops, then I unscrewed the remaining bits once the shafts were off. Only a common thing when some muppet trys to use torq or allen drives... Damn Audi spline bolts... |
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