Help Please

[steveb]

Originally Posted by npv

is slave easy enough too take apart like nuthing going pop out al have a look on friday lashing rain tonight as usual thanks

Depends what year your car is, earlier has the slave on top of the gearbox with a roll pin holding it in, you get at it through the O/S wheel arch

Later is bolted on to the lower N/S of the gearbox.

The internals of the cylinders are held in by a circlip.

[npv]

car is a 85 c reg think its at top off gearbox i seen sum sort off wire beside it cheers is there anything online showing how this is done or any books actually got a picture on my phone what do i do just take pin out off box is it got a spring on it by any chance

[BackintheFold]

I'd love to help but i find it really difficult to read your posts.
Can you start new lines to break up the sentences?

[Colin Aitchison]

Hi, I met you some years ago in your front garden you were working on you path and I was on holiday at the time, right you have proven the master cylinder is moving ok with opening the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder and the clutch pedal moved to the floor, before removing the slave cylinder loosen the flexi pipe just 1/4 of a turn as it can be a burger to loosen when slave cylinder is out of its housing, removing the slave cylinder will not be easy, the wire spring clip will need to be removed (easy) the wire spring clip goes through a 7mm roll pin, the 7mm roll pin needs to be removed with a 6mm drift or punch, the first time I did this I used a 1 meter length of M10 threaded rod with the first 40mm of one end reduced in size to 6mm with a grinder and went in from the drivers side wheel arch, you will need a hand from second person holding the end of the M10 rod on the roll pin hole on the top of the gear box (can be challenging) my view is when you have the roll pin out put it in the bin, don't put it back in use a M6 x 75mm long bolt with M6 nyloc nut to hold the slave cylinder in place, now you think the slave cylinder will just pop out, well it may but it may not, they do get stuck in, on the rear end of the slave cylinder their is shaped part to allow you to try and turn the slave cylinder with a leaver in its location housing, if it gives a little movement you should be ok, spray some wd40 around the locating housing and try a and ease it out, if it dose not move when you try to turn it with a leaver you are in bother.

Photo below, quattro gear box not the same as yours but clutch slave cylinder and location very similar, photo taken from passenger side of gear box, red circle is the location of 7mm roll pin that needs to be removed.



Photo below of new slave cylinder above fitted slave cylinder to indicate the bits you can't see



Photo blow, red arrow indicates the part you leaver to turn the slave cylinder in its housing, the leaver goes below this part and against gear box casting.



On refitting, make sure slave cylinder housing is clean and copper grease slave cylinder external body before refitting this will aid removal in the future.

[moonwatcher]

Originally Posted by BackintheFold

I'd love to help but i find it really difficult to read your posts.
Can you start new lines to break up the sentences?

My sentiments entirely, the first post was one sentence, four lines without a break, no capital letters, no punctuation and impossible to comprehend

I gave up after two minutes, my head was spinning!

[John.]

Originally Posted by npv

…. i can start car in gear go throo all the gears without the car moving or jolting

So, the clutch slave could be stuck out and so disengaging the clutch??……..unlikely given the pedal was solid to start with?

There could be a problem with the gearbox?......have you quizzed the previous owner?

The clutch disc is fooked?

Maybe the bearing has stuck/coggled after disengaging the pressure plate??

Maybe needs the box pulled out.

[steveb]

Coppaslip should not be used between aluminium and steel it causes corrosion. strange thing but it's true


The slave cylinders stick if not used for a while, I have had it happen twice on different cars. undoing the bleed nipple has let the fluid out, so now the pedal would just go to the floor with no or very little feel ?

[npv]

Originally Posted by steveb

Coppaslip should not be used between aluminium and steel it causes corrosion. strange thing but it's true


The slave cylinders stick if not used for a while, I have had it happen twice on different cars. undoing the bleed nipple has let the fluid out, so now the pedal would just go to the floor with no or very little feel ?

do appoligise for my lack of experience in writing maybe thats why i failed english in school

ave been told car hasnt moved in over a year and a half soon as i opened the nipple i lost the peddle , but have no gears thats wat concerns me think al just have too take the box out and find out wats going on

get a clutch kit and relace slave cylinder too hopefully that will work thanks for helping out

its turning into a bigger project by the day

[npv]

Originally Posted by John.

So, the clutch slave could be stuck out and so disengaging the clutch??……..unlikely given the pedal was solid to start with?

There could be a problem with the gearbox?......have you quizzed the previous owner?

The clutch disc is fooked?

Maybe the bearing has stuck/coggled after disengaging the pressure plate??

Maybe needs the box pulled out.

yes phoned the guy about it he says they drove car parked it up and left it it wouldnt start for them so it was left there for over a year and half maybe more found out why it wouldnt start either broken wire or relay as i got it going,

think the box needs too come out for sure not looking forward too that thanks

[npv]

Originally Posted by Colin Aitchison

Hi, I met you some years ago in your front garden you were working on you path and I was on holiday at the time, right you have proven the master cylinder is moving ok with opening the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder and the clutch pedal moved to the floor, before removing the slave cylinder loosen the flexi pipe just 1/4 of a turn as it can be a burger to loosen when slave cylinder is out of its housing, removing the slave cylinder will not be easy, the wire spring clip will need to be removed (easy) the wire spring clip goes through a 7mm roll pin, the 7mm roll pin needs to be removed with a 6mm drift or punch, the first time I did this I used a 1 meter length of M10 threaded rod with the first 40mm of one end reduced in size to 6mm with a grinder and went in from the drivers side wheel arch, you will need a hand from second person holding the end of the M10 rod on the roll pin hole on the top of the gear box (can be challenging) my view is when you have the roll pin out put it in the bin, don't put it back in use a M6 x 75mm long bolt with M6 nyloc nut to hold the slave cylinder in place, now you think the slave cylinder will just pop out, well it may but it may not, they do get stuck in, on the rear end of the slave cylinder their is shaped part to allow you to try and turn the slave cylinder with a leaver in its location housing, if it gives a little movement you should be ok, spray some wd40 around the locating housing and try a and ease it out, if it dose not move when you try to turn it with a leaver you are in bother.

Photo below, quattro gear box not the same as yours but clutch slave cylinder and location very similar, photo taken from passenger side of gear box, red circle is the location of 7mm roll pin that needs to be removed.



Photo below of new slave cylinder above fitted slave cylinder to indicate the bits you can't see



Photo blow, red arrow indicates the part you leaver to turn the slave cylinder in its housing, the leaver goes below this part and against gear box casting.



On refitting, make sure slave cylinder housing is clean and copper grease slave cylinder external body before refitting this will aid removal in the future.

think i,ll take the box out and replace everything colin thanks for your input will keep in touch if any off yous are up on island theres a coffee always on offer