Another wj as donor for wr engine

Colin Aitchison · 04-10-17, 08:36 PM

Last month quattro84dk did a similar post about using a WJ block as a donor for a Ur quattro WR block, I have the same project in mind for this winter and would now like to go a little deeper into the project, after a visit to the engineering shop with two heads, two blocks, valves, springs and three sets of pistons, it has been decided to use a WJ block, you may be aware that there is some differences between the WJ and WR block, 1. Timing pin sensor on the rear left back edge of the block, WR block photo below.

WR rear view.

WJ block photo below

As you can see there is going to be some cutting and grinding to get the rear edge of the block ready for the sensor, so out with tape measure, drawing below of the sizes I will be working to, this may come in handy for others but these sizes are only for guidance you must confirm they are correct before you start cutting into a block.

In the drawing to the right is the alloy spacer that the timing pin sensor mounts too and the alloy spacer mounts to the block.

Other things that are different, upper oil pressure switch on WR block.

No upper oil pressure switch on WJ block.

Can anyone confirm any other differences between the WR and WJ blocks?
I also intend to use a KV cylinder head, yes yes yes, I know they don't fit to the face of the WR or WJ blocks due to the the square bit cut out in the head linked to the water way, and the WR cam will not turn when fitted to the head, and to use buckets and shims you need to use the WR valves, and the valve springs are about 10mm short, I have a solution for all of these points, is there any more that I may have missed? Any and all comments welcomed, The question I would be asking is why not use original parts, well I do have them all to use but they are getting very hard to get now and due to never going to sell the car I need to have another route of keeping the car on the road.

Sandro · 04-10-17, 09:51 PM

hole for oil pressure switch or oil temperature sender?

msh · 04-10-17, 10:03 PM

Temp sender, at least on slightly newer 5 pot engines, is where pressure reduction valve is in oil pump.

Colin Aitchison · 05-10-17, 04:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by msh

Temp sender, at least on slightly newer 5 pot engines, is where pressure reduction valve is in oil pump.

msh, you are correct, oil temp sender is in the oil pump.

John. · 05-10-17, 06:34 AM

Colin.
Your dedication is off the scale !

Colin Aitchison · 05-10-17, 06:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John.

Colin.
Your dedication is off the scale !

What a nice way to put it John, thanks, I think I'm nuts but dedication dose sound better.

John. · 05-10-17, 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Colin Aitchison

What a nice way to put it John, thanks, I think I'm nuts but dedication dose sound better.

You are nuts as well mind you!

AdrianH · 05-10-17, 10:34 AM

Out of interest why are you not using a WR cylinder head?

Colin Aitchison · 05-10-17, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AdrianH

Out of interest why are you not using a WR cylinder head?

As you will be aware all the Audi WR MB RR 3B ABY and many more all suffer from cracking, 10v heads between the valves, 20v between the spark plug hole and the valves, the stock of second hand heads is getting low to the point where you can't find any especially the 10v heads, my own thoughts were to use a common head (KV) and see if you can modify it to fit the WR block, There is quite a bit of work to do to the head but in the long run this, if achievable will keep my own car on the road, you could use the KV cam and hydraulic lifters but the cam timing is wrong and you need to replace the exhaust valves with sodium filled valves from the MB engine, good luck finding a set of five of them, Audi Tradition only have two in stock and none on back order, so soon to be NLA.
We as a group of enthusiasts need to pull together and see what we can come up with to keep these car on the road, don't ask Audi they are not interested in the car that made there name, only in money and new car sales and its been this way for many years.

Colin Aitchison · 05-10-17, 03:06 PM

Been down the garage this afternoon cutting the timing pin sensor into the WJ block, after all the measuring I did to the WR block I never noticed that the area where the sensor is fitted is thicker in the WR block than in the WJ block, O'well, grinder in hand and off we go, the grinding, drilling and threading only took 1Hr 40Mins and looks Ok maybe could have done better but it is what it is, the alloy spacer should be flush with the back edge of the block but as you can see in the second photo the alloy spacer is a little bit further forward (0.4mm) from the back edge of the block, don't think this will be a problem.

04-10-17, 09:51 PM	#2
Sandro Grown up member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Chelmsford Posts: 651	hole for oil pressure switch or oil temperature sender?

04-10-17, 10:03 PM	#3
msh 4 ring whore! Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Rucava, Latvija Posts: 3,816	Temp sender, at least on slightly newer 5 pot engines, is where pressure reduction valve is in oil pump.

05-10-17, 06:34 AM	#5
John. 4 ring whore! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Scottish Borders. Posts: 7,520	Colin. Your dedication is off the scale !

05-10-17, 10:34 AM	#8
AdrianH Grown up member Join Date: Jan 2014 Posts: 218	Out of interest why are you not using a WR cylinder head?

05-10-17, 03:06 PM	#10
Colin Aitchison Senior Member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Back home in Tillicoultry Posts: 1,308	Been down the garage this afternoon cutting the timing pin sensor into the WJ block, after all the measuring I did to the WR block I never noticed that the area where the sensor is fitted is thicker in the WR block than in the WJ block, O'well, grinder in hand and off we go, the grinding, drilling and threading only took 1Hr 40Mins and looks Ok maybe could have done better but it is what it is, the alloy spacer should be flush with the back edge of the block but as you can see in the second photo the alloy spacer is a little bit further forward (0.4mm) from the back edge of the block, don't think this will be a problem.