Won't Start - Page 3

John. · 07-08-20, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BackintheFold

If anyone has suggestions at this point I’d love to hear them-should I tack anweld on the gear to stop slipping? (Surely Audi would have done that if needed)

Been reading this through with interest, a strange fault for sure and good on you for getting to the root of the issue.

Your quote above, I think I'd be tacking the gear on the cam as it is in situ . Will save you a lot of work? I'm assuming the cam is cast iron?.....you'll need the correct rods.

Hanuman · 07-08-20, 09:12 AM

Take the cam out? Remove the gear, reinstall the gear with bearing fit?

mikes2 · 07-08-20, 02:22 PM

Only advice I can offer is to be very very careful when re-torquing the cam bearing caps

BackintheFold · 07-08-20, 04:57 PM

I swapped the dizzy for a friends spare. 10 miles up the road, foot down. Phut phut phut.

Again, about 90 degrees out. I retimed it and drive home normally with no problem.

So I’m certain it’s the camshaft. I have a spare and I know a guy who can tack weld, but says there is not enough room to do it in Situ so I’ll be giving him my spare, he’ll tack that and then one day soon I’ll swap them over.

New seal for the cam cover but hopefully that is all I’ll need. I’ll get a friend to assist, so one can keep the cam belt tight while the other switches the cam wheel. Shouldn’t take more than a day or two... ��

I’ll also say now that I’m thinking of trading up to a 20v. If anyone hears of one, please let me know. It will be a regular driver not a garage queen, so I’m not going to pay £65,000.
It may get to the stage I’ll just want to swap in a 20v engine, and stick with my car. But I’d rather get an original one.

BackintheFold · 26-08-20, 02:07 PM

Guy who was going to tack weld cam has ummed and arred a bit, and as its a cast iron lump thinks welding is not the way to go, and instead proposed drilling and roll-pinning the gear.

I am not keen on that, and given the extreme rarity of this event, current thinking is just to replace the old cam with the spare that I have.
I'll then play with the old one-examine for minute cracks, try to rotate it (using an oil filter strap-wrench so as not to damage it) etc

Any input from anyone welcomed before I proceed rather than after!

urquattr085 · 26-08-20, 06:22 PM

Hi

I'd do the cam swap and see how it performs.
It's not a huge job on a WR, assuming it's virtually the same task on an MB.

The thought of a roll pin working its way out doesn't appeal!

I did my valve stem seals over the winter, kept tension on the belt with a bungee up to a rafter, just be aware of the bolt sequence for the cam caps (as you would a cylinder head).

You'll need to play around with the distributor to get it timed right afterwards but you'll be well used to that.

Good luck with it.

BackintheFold · 27-08-20, 06:33 PM

Great
Thanks
Quick question. I need a gasket set
034198025d
or
034198025c
?

I see these on Amazon
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=034198025&ref=nb_sb_noss
and
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=0341980...ref=nb_sb_noss
(The Reinz ones seem to be one cork, one rubber)

Anyone know which one I need please? MB engine, 1988.
TIA!

tractor Dave · 27-08-20, 07:19 PM

I used one of these.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rocker-Co...72.m2749.l2649
The fit and quality was very good. I have collars on my studs. I think you will as well so you need a rubber gasket.
I also used a very thin bead of this either side of the gasket.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Temp...72.m2749.l2649
Belt and braces job I know but I didn't want to do it twice.

urquattr085 · 27-08-20, 07:52 PM

025d if your studs have shoulders (up to chassis 85-K-000 030), otherwise 025c (chassis F 85-K-000 030 onwards) according to my parts guide.

BackintheFold · 28-08-20, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by urquattr085

025d if your studs have shoulders (up to chassis 85-K-000 030), otherwise 025c (chassis F 85-K-000 030 onwards) according to my parts guide.

Crumbs
I'll have to have a look at that. SHould be able to loosen the cover off and take a peek underneath without losing oil.
my chassis is 85-ZJA so I'd assume that's the 025d version (and there is a lot of those online, but very few 025c)
thanks
-i use 7zap, which do yo uuse please? 7zap has no chasis info just two options.
thanks
s

07-08-20, 09:12 AM	#22
Hanuman Trickster Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Heckling from the cheap seats, Phnom Penh, KoW Posts: 7,006	Take the cam out? Remove the gear, reinstall the gear with bearing fit? __________________ I wish they would keep the damned Chinese away now that I can go home, so that I can enjoy Fish amok and a draught Angkor

07-08-20, 02:22 PM	#23
mikes2 4 ring whore! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Polmont Posts: 2,617	Only advice I can offer is to be very very careful when re-torquing the cam bearing caps __________________ 1991 90 quattro 20v sport 1991 90 quattro

07-08-20, 04:57 PM	#24
BackintheFold Senior Member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Near an MB ur Quattro Posts: 1,171	I swapped the dizzy for a friends spare. 10 miles up the road, foot down. Phut phut phut. Again, about 90 degrees out. I retimed it and drive home normally with no problem. So I’m certain it’s the camshaft. I have a spare and I know a guy who can tack weld, but says there is not enough room to do it in Situ so I’ll be giving him my spare, he’ll tack that and then one day soon I’ll swap them over. New seal for the cam cover but hopefully that is all I’ll need. I’ll get a friend to assist, so one can keep the cam belt tight while the other switches the cam wheel. Shouldn’t take more than a day or two... �� I’ll also say now that I’m thinking of trading up to a 20v. If anyone hears of one, please let me know. It will be a regular driver not a garage queen, so I’m not going to pay £65,000. It may get to the stage I’ll just want to swap in a 20v engine, and stick with my car. But I’d rather get an original one. __________________ 2006 A3 (daily drive) 1987 MB ur Last edited by BackintheFold; 07-08-20 at 05:00 PM.

26-08-20, 02:07 PM	#25
BackintheFold Senior Member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Near an MB ur Quattro Posts: 1,171	Guy who was going to tack weld cam has ummed and arred a bit, and as its a cast iron lump thinks welding is not the way to go, and instead proposed drilling and roll-pinning the gear. I am not keen on that, and given the extreme rarity of this event, current thinking is just to replace the old cam with the spare that I have. I'll then play with the old one-examine for minute cracks, try to rotate it (using an oil filter strap-wrench so as not to damage it) etc Any input from anyone welcomed before I proceed rather than after! __________________ 2006 A3 (daily drive) 1987 MB ur

26-08-20, 06:22 PM	#26
urquattr085 Senior Member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: May 2016 Location: Displaced Northerner in Essex Posts: 1,528	Hi I'd do the cam swap and see how it performs. It's not a huge job on a WR, assuming it's virtually the same task on an MB. The thought of a roll pin working its way out doesn't appeal! I did my valve stem seals over the winter, kept tension on the belt with a bungee up to a rafter, just be aware of the bolt sequence for the cam caps (as you would a cylinder head). You'll need to play around with the distributor to get it timed right afterwards but you'll be well used to that. Good luck with it. __________________ 1985 WR quattro 2010 A6 3.0Tdi Allroad 2010 A3 1.4 tfsi Sport - Sold but still in the family 1984 80 Quattro - Sold many moons ago 1981 Coupe GT - Sold to buy above

27-08-20, 06:33 PM	#27
BackintheFold Senior Member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Near an MB ur Quattro Posts: 1,171	Great Thanks Quick question. I need a gasket set 034198025d or 034198025c ? I see these on Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=034198025&ref=nb_sb_noss and https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=0341980...ref=nb_sb_noss (The Reinz ones seem to be one cork, one rubber) Anyone know which one I need please? MB engine, 1988. TIA! __________________ 2006 A3 (daily drive) 1987 MB ur

27-08-20, 07:19 PM	#28
tractor Dave Senior Member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: Wales Posts: 1,157	I used one of these. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rocker-Co...72.m2749.l2649 The fit and quality was very good. I have collars on my studs. I think you will as well so you need a rubber gasket. I also used a very thin bead of this either side of the gasket. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Temp...72.m2749.l2649 Belt and braces job I know but I didn't want to do it twice.

27-08-20, 07:52 PM	#29
urquattr085 Senior Member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: May 2016 Location: Displaced Northerner in Essex Posts: 1,528	025d if your studs have shoulders (up to chassis 85-K-000 030), otherwise 025c (chassis F 85-K-000 030 onwards) according to my parts guide. __________________ 1985 WR quattro 2010 A6 3.0Tdi Allroad 2010 A3 1.4 tfsi Sport - Sold but still in the family 1984 80 Quattro - Sold many moons ago 1981 Coupe GT - Sold to buy above