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29-05-10, 08:25 AM | #11 | |
Grown up member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 20
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Quote:
always gunna be easier to use a da or rotary. |
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29-05-10, 08:48 AM | #12 |
4 Ring Mafia
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: on the side of a hill in Shropshire!
Posts: 28,215
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An explanation on why t-cut and Turtle Wax Colour Magic are bad.
Too right! Blisters on fingers ain't fun!!
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29-05-10, 08:56 AM | #13 |
4 ring whore!
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Wirral
Posts: 3,910
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So whats a good make and model of electric polisher that will not need a remortgage. Going to try and get Lynn to get me one for my B'day.
Need something to help remove all the very fine scratches and swirls...
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Coupe quattro 1986:-~450bhp + loooong list of mods! Audi A7 Bi-TDI SLine Black edition 2015 mapped to produce 600lb/ft torque! Audi S4 4.2 V8 cabriolet 2004:- |
19-01-11, 03:01 AM | #14 |
Moderator of sausages
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: sheffield
Posts: 13,331
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This needs a bttt
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Mr OCD http://s159.photobucket.com/albums/t144/jsquatts/ Daily rs4 b7 with buckets that play havoc with my piles And if you are reading this as James may would say ' you're a cock ' |
19-01-11, 10:27 AM | #15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: W.Somerset
Posts: 1,083
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i got a battery powered orbital polisher for xmas that i am yet to use, but will try it on the disco for sure,
I agree with Ian on the filling of scratches with the "colour Magic" style products , they were never designed to "dye" paint, i have used Tcut for many years and had no problems, as have millions of other people, unless my car is concourse, swirls are the least of my worries, Mer is also a great product too must admit the "Tcut for Metallics" is utter S**t though, doesnt come off and leaves it smeary as buggery, i normally use tcut, then resin polish, and finish the whole thing off with "ice" , they still come up ok |
19-01-11, 11:06 AM | #16 |
Moderator of sausages
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: sheffield
Posts: 13,331
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i hope the management didna mind me bttt'ing this as i thought it a good idea
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Mr OCD http://s159.photobucket.com/albums/t144/jsquatts/ Daily rs4 b7 with buckets that play havoc with my piles And if you are reading this as James may would say ' you're a cock ' |
19-01-11, 12:14 PM | #17 |
Grown up member
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Ipswich
Posts: 270
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The first time I used T-Cut was on metallic paint, and it made a right mess of it, so have always been cautious since.
However, used for the right application it is ok. I think it is better on very old uncared for paintwork or for removing stubborn marks. It is abrasive and you risk taking off too much paint, so I would not use it for large areas like a whole car. I did have great success on an old bike I purchased. The paint suffered from loads of scratches and it hadn't been washed for years. T-Cut restored it to better than another bike of the same age/colour which had been washed very frequently. |
19-01-11, 12:37 PM | #18 |
Moderator of sausages
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: sheffield
Posts: 13,331
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one thing worth remembering if you have an orbital polisher of some nature is when you put a blob on your pad, put the pad onto the panel in question before turning it on........i keep forgetting and they do fly off quite a way ...... BTDT
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Mr OCD http://s159.photobucket.com/albums/t144/jsquatts/ Daily rs4 b7 with buckets that play havoc with my piles And if you are reading this as James may would say ' you're a cock ' |
21-03-11, 01:24 PM | #19 |
Grown up member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 254
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This is an interesting topic..
Soooo, since we've panned T Cnut into the deck, from the elitist point of view what are the best products then to use (Done in your best "Clarkson / May / Hamster" voices!) Me? I usually use the two bucket method first (One wash / One Rinse only!) and Auto Glym Body shop shampoo... Then Chamois dry, and using a detailing spray, start to work round the panels with a clay bar... Then back to washing & drying off... Then using Porter Cable & Sonus pads and either Ferecla G3 or G11 pending on how bad, work my way around the car... Once done I then use Autoglym Resin Polish or Meguiars Gold Class or Zylomol pending on whats nearest to hand.. and go round again! Then, making sure all traces of polish are removed seal in with Carnuba wax.. & polish off... Plastics are done in Armour All. Dunno if its the correct method or not, but the result I get are stunning to say the least - all signs of swirls and scratches are gone and the depth of metallic paint is stunning Whilst we're on the topic of paint treatment, here's a question for ya Al: I got a VW Van that's been lyin' around for a year or more, originally in Arctic white. It was all polished up, although now all faded white to the point that when rubbed on by finger it leaves a trace of white on the finger. What's the best sort of treatment for this (other than a respray lols!) ? |
21-03-11, 02:37 PM | #20 | |
Grown up member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 20
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Quote:
Spot on expect one thing. Chamois ! Chamois is a swirl causer has any small dirt particles have no where to go also didn't see claying in there . So wash 2 bucket method,clay wash again then dry and carry on with the rest. |
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