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27-05-20, 05:41 PM | #31 |
Grown up member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: South Cheshire
Posts: 212
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@Audi Stan, as you see in my image above, I have the workpiece connected to the negative side of a 12v power supply (in that case, a battery charger) and the positive connected to one or more pieces of plain steel. The electrolyte is plain water with washing soda crystals dissolved into it - I use a rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon of water. Making it much stronger doesn't have a significant effect on the performance.
Switch the battery on and you should see some activity in the water as the rust is electrolytically removed from the workpiece. The water will turn very dirty as bits come off it. The other pieces of steel will get dirty too, and will benefit from regular cleaning. Don't use a galvanised bath or bucket as your container - apart from isolating the current, apparently that will give off some harmful gas because of the zinc coating. Something non-conductive is ideal, I'm using a 2.5 gallon plastic bucket at the moment. Use a container you don't care about - it will be filthy afterwards, and virtually impossible to clean. The bath in my photo was destined for the skip, so I borrowed it for a bit. A lot of the cleaning action works on "line of sight", so multiple electrodes will help to clean the piece evenly. It's not cut and dried, but it does help speed things up. |
27-05-20, 08:16 PM | #32 |
Grown up member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 36
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Massive thanks for the information, I intend to try this operation with several items , some off my Audi and many parts of an old French moped I have.
Looking for to trying it and like you mention, I'm not under any time pressure. |
27-05-20, 10:42 PM | #33 |
Grown up member
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 122
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I've done this too and have an extra tip.
You can buy graphite rods from Amazon:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 If you use those as electrodes, the water solution stays clean, so you can see what is happening easier and you don't have a mess to deal with at the end. |
28-05-20, 07:19 AM | #34 |
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Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Buxton
Posts: 745
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Would an industrial drip tray be suitable? there are lots of different sizes available.
https://www.tanks-direct.co.uk/spill...base-only.html
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28-05-20, 09:41 AM | #35 |
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Vesterlyng/Föllenslev, Denmark
Posts: 563
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A tank pallet like this and cut the top off
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28-05-20, 09:41 AM | #36 | |
Grown up member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: South Cheshire
Posts: 212
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Quote:
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28-05-20, 05:36 PM | #37 |
Grown up member
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 122
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28-05-20, 06:34 PM | #38 |
Grown up member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: South Cheshire
Posts: 212
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Great, I'll try those at some point.
(I was intending to come back and edit my post but I forgot. Of course they work as well as steel electrodes, because you'd have mentioned it otherwise, or just not suggested them.) |
05-06-20, 01:49 PM | #39 | |
Trickster
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Heckling from the cheap seats, Phnom Penh, KoW
Posts: 7,006
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Quote:
Now if I can just encourage my older battery charger to put out sufficient current. I’ve used citric acid on a lot of stuff these last few weeks, but only got the long box a few days ago. I’ve ordered some graphite rods, too. Stuff done with acid 1 vice 30+ old woodworking tools About 20kg of chisels, bolsters, rasps and files of varying coarseness. Some suspension joins/arms/brackets Stuff to tackle- (Electrolytically in some case, acid in others.) 2 pairs calipers and carriers- vented disc 1 pair solid version Set of ur struts from the Ur- Pair of front struts from V8, another pair from the 100 Three cross members 4 Ur- wishbones Various older Ur- track arms, joints, etc
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06-06-20, 02:52 PM | #40 |
Senior Member
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Wales
Posts: 1,157
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Ok. I decided to give it a go.
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