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23-05-20, 07:05 PM | #11 |
Grown up member
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Tonbridge, Kent
Posts: 511
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NO IT IS NOT!!!!!!!
Salt is sodium chloride and is highly corrosive to iron, steel, etc. Washing soda is sodium carbonate and is quite different to sodium chloride. The only similarity is that they are both soluble in water!!!! |
23-05-20, 07:13 PM | #12 |
Grown up member
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 94
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Ok noted! Still better and safer than caustic
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23-05-20, 07:15 PM | #13 |
Grown up member
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Tonbridge, Kent
Posts: 511
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Hanuman,
If you want to de-rust, tannic acid is very effective at "pacifying" the brown oxide. The ferrous oxide is converted to dark blue ferrous tannate which is to all intents inert. I have used it on my 1965 Volvo Amazon panels where rust was established and after about seven years, there has been no further appearance. The drawback is that it would be difficult to electrolytically plate over it. |
23-05-20, 07:15 PM | #14 | |
Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Wales
Posts: 1,158
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Quote:
Bilt Hamber do a brilliant rust remover soak. It's a powder you mix with water and you can use it many times over. |
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23-05-20, 07:17 PM | #15 |
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Tonbridge, Kent
Posts: 511
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23-05-20, 07:21 PM | #16 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 94
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Quote:
Washing soda, aka sodium carbonate (or soda ash), is a natural cleaner and a powerful water softener. It's very basic with a pH of 11. The Environmental Working Group gives it an “A” on their scale, so it passes with flying colours , making it safe and non-toxic. Just a suggestion that can be taken or not. I did lots of parts recently and the results were spectacular to say the least. Small old style battery charger and a couple of steel anodes and 24 hours later all rust gone! Cheers |
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23-05-20, 07:35 PM | #17 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Tonbridge, Kent
Posts: 511
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Quote:
Quite correct that using washing up liquid to wash cars is to be avoided because salt is used to raise the viscosity and in the mind of the average user, the quality of the vile green stuff. The confusion arises because you add salt to dishwashers, etc. that have an ion exchange softening unit built in. The incoming mains water passes through the softening unit which converts insoluble calcium carbonate (chalk) in the hard water to soluble sodium carbonate resulting in softened water. At some stage the ion exchange system is "re-charged" by passing saline water back through the resin ready for the next use. This water is then discharged to waste somehow. I have never investigated that far as we have a softener in our mains supply because the water is so hard in West Kent. No need to add salt to our dishwasher so absolutely safe to clean engine parts. |
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23-05-20, 07:38 PM | #18 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 94
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Quote:
Caustic is very corrosive to skin washing soda is not, ego safer!! Last edited by falcoron; 23-05-20 at 07:43 PM. |
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23-05-20, 07:44 PM | #19 | |
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Location: Wales
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Quote:
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23-05-20, 08:08 PM | #20 |
Trickster
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Heckling from the cheap seats, Phnom Penh, KoW
Posts: 7,006
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I think we’re getting a little distracted.
I’ve used a bucket full of dissolved (citric?) acid to clean some brake parts. Average bucket, a few calipers and brackets. Job finished. I’ve now got some longer parts, but which need a lighter cleaning, before finishing. Hence length of tank required. I also want to do some plating. Generally a lot of smaller parts, which will need to be suspended in solution during the process. So the tank could do with being multi tasking. I don’t want it to be too big that it can’t be stored easily when not in use, and be unobtrusive when in use. The longest (1130mm) part is actually about 250mm wide. Rear crossmember for one of the jalopies. I also have 4 wishbones that need tidying up. It’s stuff that could be cooking away while I’m working on other stuff, like pressing bushes, rebuilding struts, etc. I think I may go with a couple of euro- polypropylene crates. Chop one end off each, and plastic weld them together for the suspension parts. And if I don’t get around to stitching them together, so be it. I’ll just get the long bits blasted and painted. If I knew of someone close by with a blaster, I’d just bug them to do it, and be done with it.
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I wish they would keep the damned Chinese away now that I can go home, so that I can enjoy Fish amok and a draught Angkor |
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