2.2 cam belt change - Page 2

falcoron · 11-05-20, 01:29 PM

I just made the diy locking tool and using a 6’ bar on the end of my socket bar it works a treat came off with no impact to the pulley.
im cleaning it now to check, I have a blast cabinet with fine grit should I blast it gently to clean up and get a better look?

mikes2 · 11-05-20, 02:31 PM

It's usually the keyway and the areas where the 4 allen headed bolts are that any cracks will show.

I'd just wipe with a cloth and look at it in good light

Have you separated the pulley from the vibration damper ?

falcoron · 11-05-20, 02:52 PM

It’s the outer belt pulley I have off not the toothed one with the cam belt on it. I take it it’s the toothed cog that gives bother?
I haven’t ventured with that one yet.

mikes2 · 11-05-20, 03:00 PM

yes - it's the toothed pulley which can crack.

falcoron · 11-05-20, 07:04 PM

So checked the toothed crank pulley and all good no cracks or any damage at all under really good light, so see no need to take off and replace, it’s a genuine Audi part and very clean looking.
I checked TDC with a dowel down no 1 cylinder checked and marked with white paint dot flywheel at “0” and marked the cam pulley and the cam cover with white dots along with the crank pulley and casing as well.
i removed plugs and turned over (by hand) 2 full rotations and all the painted dots line up perfectly.
So I take it I’m safe enough taking water pump, idler pulley, ( in freezer overnight) And old belt off, reassemble again and hand turn to check nothing hitting or jamming?

mikes2 · 11-05-20, 07:20 PM

sounds good. you should also remove the distributor cap and confirm the rotor arm is pointing close to #1 cylinder. There's a small mark on the distributor body.

It won' be exact because there will be a small amount of advance set. Not sure what engine you have but a KV is usually around 14 deg btdc with unleaded.

your idler pulley shouldn't be in the freezer. It's a push fit onto the oil pump. If anything you want it slightly bigger - not smaller

you will likely need a timing light to check your timing afterwards. No matter how careful you are, it always shifts slightly.

falcoron · 11-05-20, 07:25 PM

Hi thanks yes it’s a KV engine
Always a great starter even after sitting 2 years fresh fuel and bingo no issues
I’ll check the rotor arm as well
Cheers

tractor Dave · 11-05-20, 07:28 PM

I had an interesting conversation with a mechanic friend (experienced and well respected) who said that on certain engines it was possible to change the cambelt by cutting the old one half way into the belt with a Stanley knife around the entire circumference, sliding the new belt into the space made, then cutting away the other half of the old belt before sliding the new belt fully home. Not sure it would work on our engines but an interesting idea.

falcoron · 11-05-20, 07:30 PM

In theory you can but I wanted water pump changed as while on this far why not?
You can’t do that when cutting the old one like you say

Duffy3074 · 12-05-20, 08:52 AM

Yep, false economy not changing the pump.

It's not a difficult job once you've got the front end off

11-05-20, 02:31 PM	#12
mikes2 4 ring whore! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Polmont Posts: 2,617	It's usually the keyway and the areas where the 4 allen headed bolts are that any cracks will show. I'd just wipe with a cloth and look at it in good light Have you separated the pulley from the vibration damper ? __________________ 1991 90 quattro 20v sport 1991 90 quattro

11-05-20, 03:00 PM	#14
mikes2 4 ring whore! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Polmont Posts: 2,617	yes - it's the toothed pulley which can crack. __________________ 1991 90 quattro 20v sport 1991 90 quattro

11-05-20, 07:04 PM	#15
falcoron Grown up member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Posts: 94	Belt So checked the toothed crank pulley and all good no cracks or any damage at all under really good light, so see no need to take off and replace, it’s a genuine Audi part and very clean looking. I checked TDC with a dowel down no 1 cylinder checked and marked with white paint dot flywheel at “0” and marked the cam pulley and the cam cover with white dots along with the crank pulley and casing as well. i removed plugs and turned over (by hand) 2 full rotations and all the painted dots line up perfectly. So I take it I’m safe enough taking water pump, idler pulley, ( in freezer overnight) And old belt off, reassemble again and hand turn to check nothing hitting or jamming? Last edited by falcoron; 11-05-20 at 07:07 PM.

11-05-20, 07:20 PM	#16
mikes2 4 ring whore! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Polmont Posts: 2,617	sounds good. you should also remove the distributor cap and confirm the rotor arm is pointing close to #1 cylinder. There's a small mark on the distributor body. It won' be exact because there will be a small amount of advance set. Not sure what engine you have but a KV is usually around 14 deg btdc with unleaded. your idler pulley shouldn't be in the freezer. It's a push fit onto the oil pump. If anything you want it slightly bigger - not smaller you will likely need a timing light to check your timing afterwards. No matter how careful you are, it always shifts slightly. __________________ 1991 90 quattro 20v sport 1991 90 quattro

12-05-20, 08:52 AM	#20
Duffy3074 4 ring whore! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Dalgety Bay, Fife Posts: 2,078	Yep, false economy not changing the pump. It's not a difficult job once you've got the front end off Last edited by Duffy3074; 12-05-20 at 08:59 AM.

11-05-20, 01:29 PM	#11
falcoron Grown up member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Posts: 94	I just made the diy locking tool and using a 6’ bar on the end of my socket bar it works a treat came off with no impact to the pulley. im cleaning it now to check, I have a blast cabinet with fine grit should I blast it gently to clean up and get a better look?

11-05-20, 02:52 PM	#13
falcoron Grown up member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Posts: 94	It’s the outer belt pulley I have off not the toothed one with the cam belt on it. I take it it’s the toothed cog that gives bother? I haven’t ventured with that one yet.

11-05-20, 07:25 PM	#17
falcoron Grown up member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Posts: 94	Hi thanks yes it’s a KV engine Always a great starter even after sitting 2 years fresh fuel and bingo no issues I’ll check the rotor arm as well Cheers

11-05-20, 07:28 PM	#18
tractor Dave Senior Member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: Wales Posts: 1,157	I had an interesting conversation with a mechanic friend (experienced and well respected) who said that on certain engines it was possible to change the cambelt by cutting the old one half way into the belt with a Stanley knife around the entire circumference, sliding the new belt into the space made, then cutting away the other half of the old belt before sliding the new belt fully home. Not sure it would work on our engines but an interesting idea.

11-05-20, 07:30 PM	#19
falcoron Grown up member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Jan 2013 Posts: 94	In theory you can but I wanted water pump changed as while on this far why not? You can’t do that when cutting the old one like you say