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Old 28-08-20, 11:29 AM   #31
BackintheFold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tractor Dave View Post
I used one of these.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rocker-Co...72.m2749.l2649
The fit and quality was very good. I have collars on my studs. I think you will as well so you need a rubber gasket.
I also used a very thin bead of this either side of the gasket.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Temp...72.m2749.l2649
Belt and braces job I know but I didn't want to do it twice.
Thanks-this one shows in teh cross ref that it fits both C and D variants! Doesn't fill me with joy...
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Old 28-08-20, 01:56 PM   #32
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Yours will be the D version.

I usually use Elring
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Old 28-08-20, 02:35 PM   #33
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Lovely
Thanks guys
I managed to use a little mirror inside the oil filler cap and can see it is rubber, so have bought the D version.
I bought the Reinz one because that's what i found on Amazon and i had a gift card to use up...
as good a reason as any.
Will also use thin stripe of sealant-I'm all for one go only!
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Old 29-08-20, 02:52 PM   #34
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So it turned out to be the pressed on gear on the end of the cam that was spinning when hot?

If so sounds a weird one, id suspect that it might be cracked and has lost its grip on the shaft hence spinning, you can bet your life its only moving once it gets hot enough though.
Its quite odd to have that happen as theyre usually interference fit to the shafts so normally would never let go.
Still, well done on finding it and hopefully fixing it.
As Mike said though be extra careful with the removal of the cam caps as incorrect removal/replacement can snap the cam and the nuts only torque to 15 ft pounds or 20nm as they can pull the studs out the head if theyre overtightened.
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Old 30-08-20, 08:00 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BackintheFold View Post
Iuse 7zap, which do yo uuse please? 7zap has no chasis info just two options.
thanks
s
I use this site as well as 7Zap
http://www.t85q.com/urTfa/Mainmenu.html

Pics are not as good but it has more info
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Old 30-08-20, 08:33 AM   #36
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Excellent. Mine is a J chassis so the shouldered studs.
Cog-my guess is also a crack letting it slip. Will confirm in two weeks...
Thanks for the t85 site reference. Useful for the chassis change info.
I’ve already printed off the cam caps removal sequence and torque replacement values. Hopefully will find it again soo!
Thanks everyone. I may also paint up the cam cover while it’s off. I still need to get round to detailing the engine bay, maybe this will encourage me.
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Old 30-08-20, 06:05 PM   #37
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Keep us informed with your findings on the cam.
This has had me intrigued
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Old 11-09-20, 04:40 PM   #38
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I...I....I....
I think it’s fixed.

Ready for the solution?


Cam caps were loose. Well, the nuts were loose. Finger right only, held in place by pressure from the valves!

There was also one other thing I’d noticed recently when peering down the dizzy hole. The cam gear looked like it had been LIGHTLY hammered. Or rolled along a concrete slab. Very very lightly damaged at the top of the cam gear.

The loose camshaft must have been able to flex up when under acceleration and skip a few teeth until the eco cut out the ignition.
Explains all symptoms and also the gentle chattering damage in the cam gear!

Taken out for a spin and all performed faultlessly. Fortunately didn’t have to remove bumper etc for retiming.
No mission creep, but a couple more jobs now.
Need:rear left ABS sensor.
Front wishbone bushes.
More on that later...
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Old 11-09-20, 06:55 PM   #39
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What’s happening with the ABS sensor?

They’re NLA, and only old stock hiding in random locations. But they seem pretty robust. Mine are all working after 35years, albeit most of the sheathing has perished and broken up.
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Old 11-09-20, 07:30 PM   #40
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ABS - am getting a sine wave reading rather than a square wave from that sensor. Before I try to adjust it, I’d like to
Have a spare to
Hand-and I don’t have a spare. If it turns out not to be the sensor I will be able to keep a spare.
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