Ur front top mounts- how to change them in situ.

4v6 · 22-10-11, 06:08 PM

I have no idea if this has been covered/done before so i might be rediscovering something others already know, apologies if so.

Ok, usually youd be having to remove suspension assemblies, undoing lots of bolts and generally having a rather unpleasant time all round in order to change these top mounts, but following these instructions should enable you to do both sides in something like an hour and a half or so without too much hassle, proceed as follows.

Jack up and remove the wheel on the side youre working on, you could actually leave it in place but it just makes it harder.

Slacken the top nut a couple of turns on the top of the strut.

Slacken the subframe mounting bolts a couple of turns (front and rear on the side being worked on).
Utilise a suitable jack to take the weight of the subframe.
Undo and remove the nut from the top mount and its cap.
Using a pair of small spring compressor clamps clipped over two to three coils on the road spring (mine are cheapo draper items, had em years) tighten them just enough to take the tension off the spring cap. Youll know when that is because the spring will turn easily by hand and become a little loose.
Then remove the retaining slotted nut that secures the top mount to the strut ( its directly under the previously removed top nut and cap).
Remove the two subframe bolts entirely and lower the complete suspension assembly down until you have enough slack to pop the threaded part of the strut clear from the mount and to one side.
Remove the old top mount, it might need some persuasion from above and slip it past the strut (a little tight at times but do-able).

Refit is as they say a reversal of removal.
Saves a load of time, dosnt break anything.

Might also apply to the rear struts but dont know for sure on that.

Phil Payne · 23-10-11, 08:13 AM

Another way is to unbolt the wishbone from the subframe and the anti-roll bar from the wishbone.

Only caution - when using spring compressors on a strut in the car, make sure you don't gouge the inside of the strut tower.

4v6 · 23-10-11, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil Payne

Another way is to unbolt the wishbone from the subframe and the anti-roll bar from the wishbone.

Only caution - when using spring compressors on a strut in the car, make sure you don't gouge the inside of the strut tower.

True indeed, but i really wanted to avoid removing anything more than i had to, hence the subframe lowering ops.
Agree also with the compressor point, luckily you only need to apply just enough pressure to lose the weight the spring applies to the cap which in practice comes to a couple of turns, then onward from that just a case of being careful.

SteveT63 · 23-10-11, 01:44 PM

Top marks for innovation. Keep in mind that the subframe position is pretty important to alignment, so has to be bolted back exactly were it was.

Phil Payne · 23-10-11, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveT63

Top marks for innovation. Keep in mind that the subframe position is pretty important to alignment, so has to be bolted back exactly were it was.

I don't think it would move THAT much if only one side of the subframe is lowered at once.

A_N_Other · 24-10-11, 10:37 PM

Good tip & nice guide - have done the top mounts in situ myself, but a lot of swearing and skinned knuckes later....

If (and it's a big if) the bottom ball joint and steerng arm/tie rod can "pop" out, and you've a socket for the hub nut, I've found this as quick or quicker as the access in the turret is a bit of a pain.

You'll need a whole can of WD40 and a 2 leg puller probably though....
Hence trying in situ previously!

My legs have been off so much in the past couple of months it's only a 10 min job to get them off once the wheel's up in the air now!

23-10-11, 01:44 PM	#4
SteveT63 Senior Member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 3,045	Top marks for innovation. Keep in mind that the subframe position is pretty important to alignment, so has to be bolted back exactly were it was. __________________ Peace...........through superior acceleration! T85 1985 90quattro I5 20vT T81 1983 80 Sport Red T81 1983 80 Sport Silver

23-10-11, 08:13 AM	#2
Phil Payne Banned Join Date: May 2010 Location: Sheffield Posts: 1,809	Another way is to unbolt the wishbone from the subframe and the anti-roll bar from the wishbone. Only caution - when using spring compressors on a strut in the car, make sure you don't gouge the inside of the strut tower.

24-10-11, 10:37 PM	#6
A_N_Other Grown up member Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 116	Good tip & nice guide - have done the top mounts in situ myself, but a lot of swearing and skinned knuckes later.... If (and it's a big if) the bottom ball joint and steerng arm/tie rod can "pop" out, and you've a socket for the hub nut, I've found this as quick or quicker as the access in the turret is a bit of a pain. You'll need a whole can of WD40 and a 2 leg puller probably though.... Hence trying in situ previously! My legs have been off so much in the past couple of months it's only a 10 min job to get them off once the wheel's up in the air now!