Classic Audi » Technical » Mech/Tech » Electrical problems » Another central locking one

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Old 09-09-17, 05:02 PM   #11
John.
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Originally Posted by sinbin5t View Post
Is it correct you can take a cover off the bottom of the pump and see the PCB John ? I have been told this is so but after seeing that mass of wiring i just gulped and put the pump back.


I think it was just a couple of screws and you're in..........so to speak.
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Old 09-09-17, 05:08 PM   #12
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I think it was just a couple of screws and you're in..........so to speak.

like the way that was put

Will get another look and see what's what, may as well peel the insulation tape back and try to fathom what's been done too, at least i can replace that with proper loom tape.

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Old 09-09-17, 11:17 PM   #13
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Hi Bruce,

The pump should come apart easily from below. There's not a lot to see inside, just the pump and the board. If you're lucky you'll be able to find the crack on the board and just solder it up..

I had to replace the whole pump unit as the motor was gone.
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Old 10-09-17, 09:25 AM   #14
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Hi Gee,

I am thinking maybe a different pump is the answer, i googled the pump number and it comes up as an A4 pump probably why it has 3 plugs instead of 1 or 2, do i remember you saying yours had 2 plugs ?

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Old 10-09-17, 09:46 AM   #15
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The number of plugs changes with the part numbers. My coupe has two but the cab, with alarm, has 3.
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Old 10-09-17, 11:43 AM   #16
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The number of plugs changes with the part numbers. My coupe has two but the cab, with alarm, has 3.

Awwwww bum and it's gone now bet it would have been the right one too
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Old 16-09-17, 01:59 PM   #17
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i must be being stupid here i've charged this battery up before on a slow charge over a couple of days (taken off charge through the night though) and it charged up fine. This time the needle on the charger gauge told it was only part charged 3 days in a row, i decided to try it on the car and it will not turn it over, just that annoying clicking
So, i am now thinking the battery is goosed and this could be my central locking problem as in power even though it would turn the engine over slowly, any thoughts ?

A good friend of mine had pointed in this direction previously. Helpful replies would be much appreciated.

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Old 19-05-18, 01:10 PM   #18
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At the risk of appearing thick i'm still having a hard time with this. I can't find any broken wires so i put a new fuse in just in case and because it was quiet today i heard it blow as soon as i turned the key in the door, i looked at the one i replaced and yep that had blown too, a third one did the same.

The pump got very wet winter before last, in fact the sound deadening had water pouring from it when i lifted it out so, could the pump have water damage and need replacing and would that blow fuses ?
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Old 19-05-18, 01:19 PM   #19
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My train of thought would be

1. Originally working with exception of drivers door
2. You’ve gone into the drivers door, cleaned up obviously cruddy connector. One obvious activation but whole system now dead. The faults in the bit you’ve touched last.

Go in, disconnect drivers door connector, replace the fuse and see what happens.

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Old 19-05-18, 01:32 PM   #20
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Well to expand a bit, the passenger door went intermittent then stopped working, i locked it that night with the drivers door but next morning it was all dead, i will try what you suggest Duffy because i had put a new interior pull cable on the drivers door minutes before things changed.

Thanks mate, drivers door is still opened up so here goes
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