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Old 01-11-16, 04:44 PM   #11
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Going round in circles with this
Now getting codes: Cylinder 1 injector fault-N30, 2-N31, 3-N32, 4-N33 5-N34
Car is fitted with Bosch injectors with bypass harness.

Have you tried pulling out each fuse and relay one by one cleaning contacts and putting them back? I can see you checked the earth strap to the inlet manifold but did you check the earth to the left hand engine support?

I'm reading from the factory booklet............Those codes you pulled N30,N31,N32,N33 are injectors but you don't mention N83 which is the fifth injector. You mention N34 and i checked another factory booklet i have in german which says it's a Electrical contact! Which is obvious given your problem just not sure what N34 is? The book explains it in a diagram.

Also have a go at this......again from the factory booklet.

. Final control diagnosis can only be carried out if engine is not running.

. MPI control unit is equipped with final control diagnosis,with which the operation of following components can be checked acoustically or by touching.

. Each component is given it's own flash code for checking ,which is displayed on the fault lamp or test lamp. Injectors are activated for only 1 ms each.

.Disconnect plug on final output stage of ignition coil before repeating final control diagnosis.Operate engine with started approx 6 seconds.Restore all original plug connections after completion of tests.

.Final control diagnosis can only be repeated after first switching of the ignition. This also applies to interrupting of final control diagnosis.

Not trying to teach you how to suck eggs Royston as your probably much more informed at pulling codes than me,i'm yet to have to do it,but thought i would put this up just in case it helps.

If you like i can copy the whole 7A MPI injection and ignition system factory booklet for you and post it to you.

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Old 01-11-16, 05:03 PM   #12
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N34 is the resistor pack.
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Old 01-11-16, 05:41 PM   #13
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N83 is injector 5. Don't see that in your list of codes.

Wiring diagram for the injectors

http://s2-audi.co.uk/workshop/schema...i_7a/page3.png
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Old 01-11-16, 08:01 PM   #14
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Apologies. Codes read from u281 code reader:
01249 - Cylinder 1 injector fault - N30
01250 - Cylinder 2 injector fault - N31
01251 - Cylinder 3 injector fault - N32
01252 - Cylinder 4 injector fault - N33
01253 - Cylinder 5 injector fault - N83

Question, when the ECU detects a fault and prevents the car from starting how does it do this?
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Old 01-11-16, 08:05 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tun View Post
Apologies. Codes read from u281 code reader:
01249 - Cylinder 1 injector fault - N30
01250 - Cylinder 2 injector fault - N31
01251 - Cylinder 3 injector fault - N32
01252 - Cylinder 4 injector fault - N33
01253 - Cylinder 5 injector fault - N83

Question, when the ECU detects a fault and prevents the car from starting how does it do this?
If it's like the V6 cars from roughly 91 onwards it shuts down the Fuel pump,but you have fuel.

Have you got N34 fault?
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Old 01-11-16, 08:13 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by vorsprung durch technik View Post
If it's like the V6 cars from roughly 91 onwards it shuts down the Fuel pump,but you have fuel.

Have you got N34 fault?
No just the ones stated. I presumed N34 because it was sequential to the other numbers when I was typing out the post, sorry
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Old 01-11-16, 08:17 PM   #17
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No just the ones stated. I presumed N34 because it was sequential to the other numbers when I was typing out the post, sorry
No need to be sorry Royston easy mistake,just trying/wishing you car to start for you mate.
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Old 01-11-16, 08:27 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vorsprung durch technik View Post
If it's like the V6 cars from roughly 91 onwards it shuts down the Fuel pump,but you have fuel.
Fuel pumps primes when ignition is switched on, but i'd by lying to say I can hear it while the engine is cranking because of the noise of the starter motor. When I remove the plugs they are wet with petrol and you can smell petrol from the exhaust. The bit I am most confused about is that the car doesn't so much as cough or make any noises that you would expect with fuel and a spark.

I might sell it and by a cortina my son Charlie could get one of those running and he's only 1
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Old 01-11-16, 08:30 PM   #19
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No need to be sorry Royston easy mistake,just trying/wishing you car to start for you mate.
Wishing, yes me too it's getting bloody cold round here and I'm now commuting on my motorbike brrrr
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Old 01-11-16, 08:50 PM   #20
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Wishing, yes me too it's getting bloody cold round here and I'm now commuting on my motorbike brrrr
Not good....this needs to be fixed fast for your families sake.

I see you say the rotor arm,cap etc is all good. Everything points to.......... it was working fine before you took of the inlet manifold,and on these engines a big job, but now won't start. Have you checked the other earth wire going to the left engine support i read about this afternoon. Or....................

Ok this one seams counter intuitive given what you've done but this weak spark you mention to me just points to coil,ht lead,ballast resister,brocken wire maybe or below.

1. Are you completely sure the distributor hasn't moved when removing the manifold?

2. Is the static timing spot on?
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