Classic Audi Ľ Technical Ľ Mech/Tech Ľ Engine » '89 80 B3 no heat

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Old 25-02-18, 08:33 PM   #11
msh
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Originally Posted by 00mike00 View Post
How do i ensure i'm getting the correct matrix?
By trying to get one made by Behr - it will likely cost some 40 pounds. As for the years you're concerned - B4 is B3 with different bonnet and different rear end grafted on, so, obviously, heater matrix is the same - also in mk2 Coupe and early B5, including passat. I presume that mk2, mk3 and mk4 golfs are off the question, matrix from one would fit, but have outlets in slightly different angle.
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Old 25-02-18, 11:04 PM   #12
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Let me look tomorrow, I found a couple of good write ups and using them both it was fairly straight forward, I will see what I can find tomorrow.
D
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Old 26-02-18, 07:16 AM   #13
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812012 is the Valeo part number and they are OEM.

I got mine for about £10 from Amazon but it’s about £80 on there now unfortunately.

Popping the dash off is time consuming but not difficult. The foam in my heater box had disintegrated completely and wasn’t a difficult fix once I was in there.
Your current matrix might be fine it’d be daft not to change it whilst you were in there

Ebay and £57 gets you the valeo part delivered at the moment

Last edited by Duffy3074; 26-02-18 at 07:45 AM.
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Old 26-02-18, 08:55 AM   #14
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Ok, being about IT literate and tolerant as a frog how do I attach a pdf to this thread
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Old 26-02-18, 09:31 AM   #15
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Quick reply
Go advanced
Manage attachments and attach the PDF there
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Old 26-02-18, 10:28 AM   #16
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I have another tutorial I used, I have found the link but poxy pootobstd has disabled the images.
I used both I think to do mine, but this one was the main.
Couple of tips I can only add from my experience;-

Take out both front seats, don't even try with these in place, so much easier.

The nuts in the engine bay, top 1 or 2 ( cant remember sorry ) ok to get to, bottom one will cut you to shreds, Bstd x 3

Heater was a pig trying to get the captive studs back thru the bulkhead to the engine bay, struggled for a hour Bstd x 5, in the end I remembered a little tip, push say 12" of windscreen washer hose onto the little studs, nice tight fit on the studs so it doesn't fall off, but small enough to pass thru the bulkhead. Offer heater assby up and thread hose thru holes, heater goes in first time.

The plastic cables that attach to the heater control on the heater its self, lots of photos of how yours fit because you wont remember when its time to go back in Bstd x 2

One of the write ups it mentions being careful with the plastic clips that cold the cable to the heater casing, they break easy, or you have to lay on your back in the drivers foot well upside down trying to fashion a small cable ties to hold it in place, and when you eyes are old its a fuker, Bstd x4

The small bolts that hold the dash to the bracket on the side of the transmission tunnel, these are under a flappy bit of carpet, that over the years has set solid and wont move enough to get your fingers on to grab the fukin sht fukin sod bstd bolt that drops down behind transmission tunnel carpet, that is so tough you lever it out to get you fingers on the bolt you can just see and it slips all the way down to the floor behind the carpet, Bstd x 8 as I had to remove the carpet to get to them. Pull back carpet and stick duct tape to the transmission tunnel just below the bracket and bolts and then flap this over or something to the carpet and stick it to the carpet so anything you drop just falls into the foot well and not into the void.

Take a pic of the dash switches and which order they are in, every pic you see on the tinternet will show a different arrangement. They are colour coded so this isn't an issue.

I didn't have an air bag so if you do just take care.

Hope this helps, if I get the other guide sorted I will post this.
And thanks to the chaps that originally wrote this.

David
Attached Files
File Type: pdf S2HeaterMatrixpictorial.pdf (849.6 KB, 5 views)
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Old 27-02-18, 11:20 AM   #17
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Some use duct tape, but more proper material is drywall amortisation tape, widest one, comes in big roll, can be bought in construction stores, and that roll is enough for at least 20 heaters...
Last time I did this was around November time and I had an extension lead to a heater inside the car, it took me two days because of the mass of shite behind and around the dash and I ran out of light.
Iíll be honest Iím not looking forward to doing it again in the cold and right now itís hardly above one degree! At least have work lights now in case it does get dark, I can carry on.

I really appreciate all the input guys, Iím still unsure about the tape or drywall tape fix as I want to get it right when iím in there in case I donít make the most of the replacement matrix.
IĎll take a look at this PDF when I get a moment after work.
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Old 27-02-18, 11:26 AM   #18
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I used self adhesive foam sheet for mine, cheap and effective
Taking the seats out is easy (one 10mm nut/bolt) and does make access a lot easier.
Take it out in a Saturday morning, an hour to strip out the matrix and do the flaps, get the box back into place Saturday afternoon/early evening, dash back in on Sunday. Well earned beer watching Top Gear on Sunday night.

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Old 27-02-18, 11:31 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Duffy3074 View Post
I used self adhesive foam sheet for mine, cheap and effective
Taking the seats out is easy (one 10mm nut/bolt) and does make access a lot easier.
Take it out in a Saturday morning, an hour to strip out the matrix and do the flaps, get the box back into place Saturday afternoon/early evening, dash back in on Sunday. Well earned beer watching Top Gear on Sunday night.

Sounds like a decent plan, pay day tomorrow so thatíll be one heater matrix and ten beers.
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Old 27-02-18, 12:26 PM   #20
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812012 is the Valeo part number and they are OEM.

Ebay and £57 gets you the valeo part delivered at the moment
I had a quick look, will this one be the same? (It's £30)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-80-B...EAAOSwEb9aJUso
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