RR camshaft chain replacement

[QuattroBird]

As part of some preventative service work, I am looking to change the camshaft chain on the 20v RR engine. Anyone added a link of what to be careful of or tips when doing this.
I have noted you can get the open link chain with the retaining clip or the full linked chain under the same part ref. Assume OE is full chain and open link is for an easier change without taking the camshaft out. Anyone tried this one or downsides?
If cam out is there a sequence of bolting down collars again and torque figures?
Just want to get the job in my mind before I start.
Gears will have marks for horizontal positioning I am sure.
(Just part of an extended cambelt w/p etc etc change and as at 100,000 mile service)

[tractor Dave]

I've done this job on the S2 engine and it's actually not too difficult.
I used the febi chain without the split link. Just placed it on the sprockets and lined up the marks and lowered the cams together until I was happy everything lined up. The marks are facing back inside the head and it's fiddly to see with the head on. Use a mirror.
Make sure you support the cam top pulley when you remove and replace the bolt as the key can shear. Don't use an impact gun!

[QuattroBird]

Thanks Dave - so looks like cams out - did you have a bolt tightening pattern to use or just nip up alternate front to back in a zigzag working the way to the centre then then torque up on the way back out?
I have a worry about the open chain with clip as if it comes off, breaks etc

[tractor Dave]

I used the sequence listed in the Haynes manual for the Audi 80 20v which is essentially the same head.
The chain is very tight and I think you would struggle fitting the one with the split link. Cams out is quite easy. You could even do your valve stem seals while you are there.

[QuattroBird]

...Good idea will probably do that. It just knowing where to stop as whilst a cam belt change the list is growing whilst I take the opportunity service replace parts in a preventative service way and clean, paint etc etc so ends a quite a job. Do have the after run pump not working to sort, may be dead or a faulty switch, so easier once parts move out of the way

[tractor Dave]

Originally Posted by QuattroBird

...Good idea will probably do that. It just knowing where to stop as whilst a cam belt change the list is growing whilst I take the opportunity service replace parts in a preventative service way and clean, paint etc etc so ends a quite a job. Do have the after run pump not working to sort, may be dead or a faulty switch, so easier once parts move out of the way

Tell me about it. These jobs do turn bigger and bigger as you move along!

[quattrodave]

Originally Posted by QuattroBird

Thanks Dave - so looks like cams out - did you have a bolt tightening pattern to use or just nip up alternate front to back in a zigzag working the way to the centre then then torque up on the way back out?
I have a worry about the open chain with clip as if it comes off, breaks etc

I would never fit a split link to a chain inside an engine, not good practice, on the older Jap motorcycle engines where the cam chain is in the centre of the engine you can use a rivit link instead of the split link, a much better solution but again must be done correctly.

[Colin Aitchison]

I'm with Tractor Dave on this, done a 7A and 3B engine, easy job if you have had experience with cam belt changes in the past, you just have to line up all the marks on crank, cams, flywheel and turn the engine over two full rotations before starting, the link chain seems like a difficult job but once you are into it you will find it easy, the cam shaft sprocket bolt on both of mine were very tight, you will need a pulley holding tool to remove the bolt and another set of hands, the sprocket bolt head on both of mine were the flange type with a shallow hex head bolt, the key-way tooth on the cam sprocket is easily broken off please be mindful of that when removing and refitting the sprocket, I also would not fit a removable split link chain, last bit of advice would be to replace the cam cover to head rubber seal, I did't on the first one I done and it leaked oil down the front right hand side of the engine onto the exhaust manifold with a nice burning oil smell.

[john bowden]

The chain is still available from TPS @£25

Fits various other applications, there's plenty of help on the s2 forum on how to do the job and set it up correctly.

Be very careful with the cam sprocket, very easy to break the keyway built into it, and they are NLA

John

[QuattroBird]

Thanks all. Will take onboard. Keyway info is “gold”��