Odometer still not working! - Page 3

Gmac · 21-12-16, 07:56 PM

Pictures of the circuit board, both sides are at the bottom of page one by the way Mark, have a look see what you think. I'd like to try and get this fixed.

I've just had a look at mine and it's a VDO cluster!

ChrisG · 21-12-16, 08:13 PM

It's probably been contaminated - by crumbs from that sandwich

Sorry , that's not helpful is it

I've got to admire your tenacity though so good luck fixing it.

Hanuman · 21-12-16, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gmac

Have to say, can't see anything obvious.. Nothing burnt out... And without getting too much down in the weeds, how am I going to supply power to the motor to see if the cogs are spinning as they should?

Second one first.
Large black gear in the middle as reference.
At 9 o'clock, there is a mark across a track. Is it dirt, or a scratch? If the latter, is there a break in the track? Easy enough to check, with a DVM, measure (zero ohms) between the two component pins at either end of the track.
Slightly up from that mark is a large solder connection, which may well be to the motor. It's hard to tell in the photo, but it's got a couple of qualities that might suggest a dry(cold) joint. If you have a soldering iron, I would reflow all this connections. It costs little more than some time and a bit of solder.

First one second
The motor is likely controlled by that IC in the top right corner of the component side pic. It would be a little more complicated rigging this circuit to run without some other bits of kit.

It occurs to me that disabling the odometer would be a great way of hiding the mileage on the car.

Gmac · 21-12-16, 10:06 PM

Thanks for that Mark

I'll take a closer look at that scratch and get an DVM on it! And then I think you are talking about the lump of solder just next to the scratch? (The lower left of the two similar ones close by the scratch?). I can take a closer pic. Macro the **** out of it! Lol

I have got a soldering iron but would be very under confident in using it. Would I just need to put a dab on the scratch, and then a further dab on the nearest 'lump', or does the lump just have to be livened up with a hot iron?

There is a breaker b4 1.9tdi in Aberdeen which I could go and take a look at I suppose.

And yeh, going through this process I've learnt how to clock an old car! Lol. Kind of why I want to get this one fixed, so as to show honesty down the line.

audi80fan · 21-12-16, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gmac

And yeh, going through this process I've learnt how to clock an old car! Lol. Kind of why I want to get this one fixed, so as to show honesty down the line.

True enough, although with the MOT history check these days you'd have some explaining to do anyway.

Things have certainly come a long way though compared with the looks of these clocks.

Hanuman · 21-12-16, 10:27 PM

For reflowing solder

Option one. A quick once over that I've been guilty of, also. Just reheat it, and let it cool as normal. However, if there's any contamination on the competent leg, this may be a temporary fix.

Option two. I usually wick off the old solder, apply flux, and fresh solder.

My usual boot tool kit has a gas soldering iron courtesy of Maplin
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/pro-iroda-...iron-kit-n12ar

along with solder wick (copper braid which is used to remove old solder)
http://www.maplin.co.uk/search?text=...+braid&x=0&y=0

and flux.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/flux-dispensing-pen-n63aa

mikes2 · 21-12-16, 11:43 PM

If yours is VDO, you can probably use bits from the Ebay cluster.

You can use a multimeter to check the traces on all the tracks to the IC. You should have continuity to all pins

Gmac · 22-12-16, 06:48 PM

Well I tested all the tracks on the circuit board and all measured 0.00ohms. Everything does look ok...so had another look at cogs etc and I found this...the missing cog! On the end of my finger.. Same colour as the old small cog. It was jammed in amongst the other cogs....I just wonder if this was stopping something!!!!

Will put it back together and go for another drive! Fingers crossed, again!! Lol

audi80fan · 22-12-16, 07:02 PM

Ha, well done. That definitely deserves a beer.

Duffy3074 · 22-12-16, 07:24 PM

Hopefully finally done.

Good job for persevering

21-12-16, 07:56 PM	#21
Gmac Grown up member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 686	Pictures of the circuit board, both sides are at the bottom of page one by the way Mark, have a look see what you think. I'd like to try and get this fixed. I've just had a look at mine and it's a VDO cluster! Last edited by Gmac; 21-12-16 at 07:59 PM.

21-12-16, 08:13 PM	#22
ChrisG Senior Member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Bracknell, Berks. Posts: 1,465	It's probably been contaminated - by crumbs from that sandwich Sorry , that's not helpful is it I've got to admire your tenacity though so good luck fixing it. Last edited by ChrisG; 21-12-16 at 08:20 PM.

21-12-16, 10:27 PM	#26
Hanuman Trickster Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Heckling from the cheap seats, Phnom Penh, KoW Posts: 7,006	For reflowing solder Option one. A quick once over that I've been guilty of, also. Just reheat it, and let it cool as normal. However, if there's any contamination on the competent leg, this may be a temporary fix. Option two. I usually wick off the old solder, apply flux, and fresh solder. My usual boot tool kit has a gas soldering iron courtesy of Maplin http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/pro-iroda-...iron-kit-n12ar along with solder wick (copper braid which is used to remove old solder) http://www.maplin.co.uk/search?text=...+braid&x=0&y=0 and flux. http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/flux-dispensing-pen-n63aa __________________ I wish they would keep the damned Chinese away now that I can go home, so that I can enjoy Fish amok and a draught Angkor Last edited by Hanuman; 22-12-16 at 12:24 AM.

21-12-16, 11:43 PM	#27
mikes2 4 ring whore! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Polmont Posts: 2,617	If yours is VDO, you can probably use bits from the Ebay cluster. You can use a multimeter to check the traces on all the tracks to the IC. You should have continuity to all pins __________________ 1991 90 quattro 20v sport 1991 90 quattro

22-12-16, 06:48 PM	#28
Gmac Grown up member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 686	Well I tested all the tracks on the circuit board and all measured 0.00ohms. Everything does look ok...so had another look at cogs etc and I found this...the missing cog! On the end of my finger.. Same colour as the old small cog. It was jammed in amongst the other cogs....I just wonder if this was stopping something!!!! Will put it back together and go for another drive! Fingers crossed, again!! Lol Last edited by Gmac; 18-07-17 at 06:06 PM.

21-12-16, 10:06 PM	#24
Gmac Grown up member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 686	Thanks for that Mark I'll take a closer look at that scratch and get an DVM on it! And then I think you are talking about the lump of solder just next to the scratch? (The lower left of the two similar ones close by the scratch?). I can take a closer pic. Macro the **** out of it! Lol I have got a soldering iron but would be very under confident in using it. Would I just need to put a dab on the scratch, and then a further dab on the nearest 'lump', or does the lump just have to be livened up with a hot iron? There is a breaker b4 1.9tdi in Aberdeen which I could go and take a look at I suppose. And yeh, going through this process I've learnt how to clock an old car! Lol. Kind of why I want to get this one fixed, so as to show honesty down the line.

22-12-16, 07:02 PM	#29
audi80fan Senior Member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Mar 2016 Posts: 1,157	Ha, well done. That definitely deserves a beer.

22-12-16, 07:24 PM	#30
Duffy3074 4 ring whore! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Dalgety Bay, Fife Posts: 2,078	Hopefully finally done. Good job for persevering