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25-02-18, 08:33 PM | #11 |
4 ring whore!
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Rucava, Latvija
Posts: 3,816
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By trying to get one made by Behr - it will likely cost some 40 pounds. As for the years you're concerned - B4 is B3 with different bonnet and different rear end grafted on, so, obviously, heater matrix is the same - also in mk2 Coupe and early B5, including passat. I presume that mk2, mk3 and mk4 golfs are off the question, matrix from one would fit, but have outlets in slightly different angle.
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25-02-18, 11:04 PM | #12 |
4 ring whore!
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 3,124
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Let me look tomorrow, I found a couple of good write ups and using them both it was fairly straight forward, I will see what I can find tomorrow.
D |
26-02-18, 07:16 AM | #13 |
4 ring whore!
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Dalgety Bay, Fife
Posts: 2,080
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812012 is the Valeo part number and they are OEM.
I got mine for about £10 from Amazon but it’s about £80 on there now unfortunately. Popping the dash off is time consuming but not difficult. The foam in my heater box had disintegrated completely and wasn’t a difficult fix once I was in there. Your current matrix might be fine it’d be daft not to change it whilst you were in there Ebay and £57 gets you the valeo part delivered at the moment Last edited by Duffy3074; 26-02-18 at 07:45 AM. |
26-02-18, 08:55 AM | #14 |
4 ring whore!
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 3,124
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Ok, being about IT literate and tolerant as a frog how do I attach a pdf to this thread
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26-02-18, 09:31 AM | #15 |
4 ring whore!
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Dalgety Bay, Fife
Posts: 2,080
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Quick reply
Go advanced Manage attachments and attach the PDF there |
26-02-18, 10:28 AM | #16 |
4 ring whore!
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 3,124
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I have another tutorial I used, I have found the link but poxy pootobstd has disabled the images.
I used both I think to do mine, but this one was the main. Couple of tips I can only add from my experience;- Take out both front seats, don't even try with these in place, so much easier. The nuts in the engine bay, top 1 or 2 ( cant remember sorry ) ok to get to, bottom one will cut you to shreds, Bstd x 3 Heater was a pig trying to get the captive studs back thru the bulkhead to the engine bay, struggled for a hour Bstd x 5, in the end I remembered a little tip, push say 12" of windscreen washer hose onto the little studs, nice tight fit on the studs so it doesn't fall off, but small enough to pass thru the bulkhead. Offer heater assby up and thread hose thru holes, heater goes in first time. The plastic cables that attach to the heater control on the heater its self, lots of photos of how yours fit because you wont remember when its time to go back in Bstd x 2 One of the write ups it mentions being careful with the plastic clips that cold the cable to the heater casing, they break easy, or you have to lay on your back in the drivers foot well upside down trying to fashion a small cable ties to hold it in place, and when you eyes are old its a fuker, Bstd x4 The small bolts that hold the dash to the bracket on the side of the transmission tunnel, these are under a flappy bit of carpet, that over the years has set solid and wont move enough to get your fingers on to grab the fukin sht fukin sod bstd bolt that drops down behind transmission tunnel carpet, that is so tough you lever it out to get you fingers on the bolt you can just see and it slips all the way down to the floor behind the carpet, Bstd x 8 as I had to remove the carpet to get to them. Pull back carpet and stick duct tape to the transmission tunnel just below the bracket and bolts and then flap this over or something to the carpet and stick it to the carpet so anything you drop just falls into the foot well and not into the void. Take a pic of the dash switches and which order they are in, every pic you see on the tinternet will show a different arrangement. They are colour coded so this isn't an issue. I didn't have an air bag so if you do just take care. Hope this helps, if I get the other guide sorted I will post this. And thanks to the chaps that originally wrote this. David |
27-02-18, 11:20 AM | #17 | |
Grown up member
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 33
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Quote:
I’ll be honest I’m not looking forward to doing it again in the cold and right now it’s hardly above one degree! At least have work lights now in case it does get dark, I can carry on. I really appreciate all the input guys, I’m still unsure about the tape or drywall tape fix as I want to get it right when i’m in there in case I don’t make the most of the replacement matrix. I‘ll take a look at this PDF when I get a moment after work. |
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27-02-18, 11:26 AM | #18 |
4 ring whore!
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Dalgety Bay, Fife
Posts: 2,080
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I used self adhesive foam sheet for mine, cheap and effective
Taking the seats out is easy (one 10mm nut/bolt) and does make access a lot easier. Take it out in a Saturday morning, an hour to strip out the matrix and do the flaps, get the box back into place Saturday afternoon/early evening, dash back in on Sunday. Well earned beer watching Top Gear on Sunday night. |
27-02-18, 11:31 AM | #19 | |
Grown up member
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 33
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Quote:
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27-02-18, 12:26 PM | #20 | |
Grown up member
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 33
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Quote:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-80-B...EAAOSwEb9aJUso |
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