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Old 07-02-15, 02:44 PM   #21
ChrisG
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excellent , thanks !
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Old 07-02-15, 04:48 PM   #22
msh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgacampbell View Post
Ok so uprating the loom in the 90 sounds like a bit of a ball ache removing looms. (I may go that route if and when the engine has to be rebuilt or changed)

Anyone any experience of the 100/80w offroad bulbs?

Are they worth a try?

Bare in mind i'm not to bothered that the would be illegal considering the amount of boy racer saxo's and corsas that blind me with their aftermarket hid kits(and the local law doesn't seem to bothered by them).

My thinking is at least the beam pattern would be correct with the offroad bulbs.

Thoughts?
Let's forget about beam patterns [which are unlikely to be correct] - remember that 1) they will consume two times more power of originals, and light switch usually already has hard time to cope with pair of H4 bulbs, so we can't expect it's lifetime to be long with something more powerful; 2) headlight reflectors also age even with stock H4 bulbs, what can we expect with bulbs that emit twice as much heat?

Removing the loom is the smallest of all problems. I don't know about RHD, for LHD car there's choice - either to remove ABS hydraulic unit, or brake master cylinder with brake booster - I both times chose master cylinder and booster. I also removed fusebox to be able to get one hand inside. In any case the hardest part is to build loom good enough - involves powerful soldering iron [recently bought 100w soldering iron for some heavier work, because 30w is barely capable of 1,5 mm2, anything bigger is pain in the ass for it], connector disassembly to remove contacts to solder wires directly to them [what's the point of leaving small part of original wire?], good enough so the wires wouldn't get loose no matter what happens - and to wrap the result, again, as good as possible, afterwards. I chose modern mainstream way - with corrugated tubing, recycled in junkyard, wrapped in insulation tape. My first try was rather poor, with tendency for the tape to break at places where some connector joins the loom, now I made it better, both from that lesson and from lessons learn't while disassembling looms in junkyard.

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Originally Posted by ChrisG View Post
When these autocheck B3/4s were new there was a way around the autocheck - I believe the circuit(s) needed a small resistor to 'fool' the auto check into thinking all was OK.
That's the troublesome way - the simple way is simply to remove headlight control unit and bridge four contacts. Headlight/rear light warning happens when either of control units passes some voltage to autocheck unit - empty socket obviously can't do that.

Last edited by msh; 07-02-15 at 04:50 PM.
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Old 07-02-15, 05:39 PM   #23
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I know soldering terminals etc is best practice but I just crimped all mine , and it has lasted 20+ years .....
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Old 07-02-15, 07:28 PM   #24
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This time it's about both power transmission efficiency and used contacts which weren't intended for wires that thick - so there's no other choice anyway.
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Old 07-02-15, 07:56 PM   #25
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Im fed up too, i had a hair raising moment on the M1 couldnt see Jack for about 4 miles, and not even a reflection on a car in front!
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Old 23-02-15, 05:03 AM   #26
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It turns out that they are even brighter then me normal brights
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