Classic Audi Ľ Technical Ľ Mech/Tech Ľ Engine » Re-shim tappets

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Old 30-09-20, 07:06 AM   #1
Sie!
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Default Re-shim tappets

Morning all,

After reading another thread on here about tappet shims/hydraulic lifters (thanks SPYROS29), mine have been doing my head in for a while now and believe its high time I got to sorting them out.

Its the 4-cyl DS/Carb engine, am I correct in thinking the tool I need to depress the buckets is Hazet 2574-1, paired with some tappet shim pliers? I don't want to be removing the cam if I can avoid it...

Many thanks,


Simon
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Old 30-09-20, 07:54 AM   #2
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Default From another thread....

http://www.classic-audi.co.uk/forum/...hybrid&t=32846

I have both. The pliers can be ignored, if you have a good strong magnetic pickup. But oil suction will hold the shim in the bucket.

The job is quick, on a WR with these. Normally I’d do it all in under an hour.

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I have both the bucket depressor and the oversize 'tweezers' for picking the shims out. I'm in Poole. They could be loaned. I travel to gatwick frequently. If that is of any use?



But they aren't for sale!

Edit: fwiw. I bought these through a friendly dealership a long while back.

Alternatively, I did see a number of the more frequently used tools available through a Dutch site.
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Last edited by Hanuman; 30-09-20 at 07:57 AM.
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Old 30-09-20, 08:10 AM   #3
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Thatís actually the thread I saw when I did a search, very informative thank you!

Is the tool the same for both 4 & 5 cylinder, I assume it is? If so Iíll get one ordered later today.
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Old 30-09-20, 08:49 AM   #4
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Basically this is the item Iíve seen...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154045229910

2574 and 2574-1 seem different shapes, Iíve no idea if they will both do the same job.

Recon the eBay item will do for me?
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Old 30-09-20, 09:03 AM   #5
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Sorry, but I had the tool 2078 and sold it, 2078 worked a treat but found it very difficult to get the shim out of the top of the tappet bucket, save your money buying tool 2078, measure your tappet clearance, remove the cam, renew all worn shims and replace the cam this works better for me, it may sound like the long way round but wait till you have a couple of shims you can't get out and have to remove the cam anyway.
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Old 30-09-20, 09:36 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colin Aitchison View Post
Sorry, but I had the tool 2078 and sold it, 2078 worked a treat but found it very difficult to get the shim out of the top of the tappet bucket, save your money buying tool 2078, measure your tappet clearance, remove the cam, renew all worn shims and replace the cam this works better for me, it may sound like the long way round but wait till you have a couple of shims you can't get out and have to remove the cam anyway.
I was afraid someone was about to say that!

I'm skeptical about my ability in not cocking up taking the camshaft out... Is it a relatively simple task? The bit that gets me is that I assume the cam will be pushing down one one or more of the followers when the engine is at TDC, therefore it will naturally want to come away when taking the caps off? Would it need force to depress the same followers when reassembling? Sorry if that sounds skew-whiff or I'm talking absolute rubbish!

I am trying to learn to do things myself as much as possible, cant help but think that's the best way going forward. Not sure any local garage would have a blooming clue about this sort of thing anymore.
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Old 30-09-20, 11:15 AM   #7
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Yes you are correct, when refitting the cam you have to lay cam in the head roughly at TDC, refit the cam caps, then the some of the M8 cam cap nut will catch a couple threads, you need to nip up the ones that fit until you get the others on, when you have all M8 nuts on threads go round in an order and give them all a half turn till tight, yes you will push some of the inlet/exhaust valves open but if the pistons are at TDC and the cam is roughly at TDC there is not normally a problem, their is a torque setting for the cam cap M8 nuts and it is not very high (25Nm????)
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Old 30-09-20, 12:03 PM   #8
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2078 is the tool you need, the other cranked one Can be used but isnít ideal. Taking the cam out is an option but not ideal if you are not confident. Obviously not having a box of shims is a draw back as whatever way you do it is going to take time in that you need to measure the clearance, remove the shim, calculate what size shim you need, order shim and hope your sums where right.
Out of interest where are you based? Someone with the tool maybe close to you.
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Old 30-09-20, 04:43 PM   #9
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As far as I can tell, they are the same. Maybe check the part numbers of the buckets? The shims across VW/Audi for the 4cyl Golf, and 5 Cyl WR were the same basic dimensions. I have golf shims in mine. mainly due to a machining error by the engine shop. Golf shims go to a slightly great range of thickness.

On the basis of that, I'd be inclined to think the tools are going to be compatible.


before the book was lost, I ran this-

1st time. Measured gaps, and measured shims, and wrote out a table, so that I knew what size shim was located where.
The next time that I went down the route of checking clearances, it was then a simple matter of seeing what the error was, and selecting a shim as needed.
updated my table/list. If needed, I could simply move a correct size shim from one position to another, and over time ended up with a selection of shims. quick and easy job.

The big risk with taking the cam out, IS-

DO NOT GET DISTRACTED & MIX UP/REVERSE POSITION of any cam caps. I've heard of folks installing one 180 degrees out, and cracking the cam cap when they torque them up.

A warm engine is useful for easing the oil suction.
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Old 30-09-20, 07:40 PM   #10
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The two tools are different. The cranked one is for early engines and diesels, the strait one for later engines - the heads were slightly different. It has been some years but Iím sure with a bit of jiggling the cranked one can be used on later engines but not vice-versa. Shims are all the same, canít recall the average sizes being any different between Audiís and VWís unless significant head work was carried out. Putting oversize valves in for instance often meant surface grinding the thinnest shims
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