Another central locking one

[sinbin5t]

May as well start at the very beginning.

About 2 months ago the central locking stopped operating from the drivers door , wind forward a bit and i had the doorcards off to fit new end seals, while the drivers doorcard was off i pulled the plug off from the central locking for a look and it was a bit grotty inside, cleaned it up and put it back on and the pump operated the instant the plug went back on, great i thought .

I put the doorcards back on and locked the car from the drivers side, then i went round to the passenger side to try that, it was suddenly intermittent as in it worked every second or third try i'll just look again tomorrow i thought, went back to the drivers door and that locked and unlocked the car no problem.

Went out to the car the next morning and neither of the doors would operate the central locking and have not done since.
So, how do i use a multi meter to test for power to the plugs ? Do the doors operate the central locking on independant circuits as they appear to ? Or could it be just one broken wire stopping it all working.

Thanks in advance.



Forgot to put it's the B4 Coupe i am talking about.

[maxustaxus]

Hello Bruce,

I am a bit confused, if I recall correctly a type 43 has a pnuematic system, with only air lines going to the actuators in the doors...(from a bivalve pump in the boot rather than wires)?

Or perhaps you mean a different model Audi?

[sinbin5t]

Originally Posted by maxustaxus

Hello Bruce,

I am a bit confused, if I recall correctly a type 43 has a pnuematic system, with only air lines going to the actuators in the doors...(from a bivalve pump in the boot rather than wires)?

Or perhaps you mean a different model Audi?

Sorry Ozzie, my fault, i should have put it's the B4 Coupe. I will put that right now, thanks for replying.

[maxustaxus]

Oh I see....thanks for the reply (sorry I don't really know about B3s, hope it gets sorted though).

[sinbin5t]

Thanks Ozzie, enjoy AITP with that stunning 5T of yours.

[Ben]

This should be the wiring diagram for the door switches. Red is ign switched +12v and Red/Blk is perm +12v:



I would start at the pump to check the continuity of the switches. Google can explain how to check car wiring with a multimeter better than I would

Is it working on the boot lock?

[sinbin5t]

Hi Ben
The whole lot is just dead, no pump noise just nothing at all mate.

[sinbin5t]

Having dug the central locking pump out this is what i found :-

1) A pump with 3 plugs
2) A mass of wiring with insulation tape around it
3) About 18 wires minimum going to the three plugs

This has to be the alarm and immobiliser grafted in, where on earth do i start to see if i have a power supply to everything , please bear in mind i am not good with electrics other than plugs with 2 or 3 wires, i can cope with those
Or should i just take it to a garage and get charged a fortune

[John.]

Originally Posted by Ben

This should be the wiring diagram for the door switches. Red is ign switched +12v and Red/Blk is perm +12v:



I would start at the pump to check the continuity of the switches. Google can explain how to check car wiring with a multimeter better than I would

Is it working on the boot lock?

Nice diagram

My old S2 had no central locking, turn out it was a soldered joint on the PCB........this was the feed to the actual pump. Worth a wee look as it was an easy fix.

[sinbin5t]

Originally Posted by John.

Nice diagram

My old S2 had no central locking, turn out it was a soldered joint on the PCB........this was the feed to the actual pump. Worth a wee look as it was an easy fix.

Is it correct you can take a cover off the bottom of the pump and see the PCB John ? I have been told this is so but after seeing that mass of wiring i just gulped and put the pump back.