Broken road spring - Page 2

AdrianH · 31-07-23, 05:04 PM

Yes too late this time unfortunately.

Now I've come to terms with the whole broken spring situation I'm quite enjoying the challenge of overcoming it, as usual. Having to resist the temptation to turn it into a whole subframe/suspension restoration, brake and fuel pipe replacement, exercise. Doing this will speed that up later on though.

Colin Aitchison · 31-07-23, 05:48 PM

Impact gun normally removes the 22mm top strut nut without the aid of holding the strut center allen key, need to be carful with the slotted nut in the center of the top bearing mount, but by that time the strut will be off the car.

Hanuman · 01-08-23, 03:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AdrianH

Yes too late this time unfortunately.

Now I've come to terms with the whole broken spring situation

unfortunately, I've been further delayed, so I've not had a chance to get back and dig spares out. sorry

AdrianH · 01-08-23, 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Colin Aitchison

Impact gun normally removes the 22mm top strut nut without the aid of holding the strut center allen key, need to be carful with the slotted nut in the center of the top bearing mount, but by that time the strut will be off the car.

I don't own an impact wrench (yet) but I think in this case it would have been defeated by the damper piston/rod where it's been knurled over the nut by whoever bodged it last time. Good tool to have for wen I do the full subframe strip down though.

Yesterday evening was spent carefully drilling down either side of the nut until the nut could be removed. The slotted nut is moving easily. Onto the next stage...

AdrianH · 01-08-23, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hanuman

unfortunately, I've been further delayed, so I've not had a chance to get back and dig spares out. sorry

Thanks for the support –*much appreciated.

AdrianH · 17-08-23, 12:43 PM

All the new tools have all arrived including the elusive 2069A, which was joy to use after the shenanigans undoing the nuts on the O/S damper. I didn't follow Phil Payne's advice about obtaining a 'turnbuckle' spring compressors (literally no one else seems to call them that) ie spring compressors with the hex in the middle that pull in from both ends simultaneously. But I should have done –* I've now got some and don't think I could have removed the spring without them. Hopefully stripping the N/S strut tomorrow will take no time at all, then it's time to surrender my credit card for new dampers etc. And find some springs

AdrianH · 04-09-23, 09:57 AM

OK money spent, parts obtained. All back together. Only one problem. The slotted nuts, top of strut –*are they made from chocolate?

Using the correct tool tried to torque it down –*the slots just sheared off. OK, I'll remove that nut and replace with another one. Sodding thing tears out that way too. So now it's stuck in there, all mucked up, not tool I can think of able to get a decent purchase to wind it out. Anyone got any ideas?

i had this with the knackered nut when I stripped down but that was easy (relatively) in that I just drilled/chiseled everything out. But his time it's a brand new damper and and brand new top mount. Maybe I should just fit up the top nut and forget about it seeing it doesn't want to go anywhere, and revisit when I drop the entire running gear in due course.

tractor Dave · 04-09-23, 04:54 PM

You are probably using the wrong tool. I've seen several aftermarket versions of this tool and none fitted properly. In the end I made my own tool. VAG one is rare to see.

BackintheFold · 05-09-23, 08:45 AM

>>Maybe I should just fit up the top nut and forget about it seeing it doesn't want to go anywhere, and revisit when I drop the entire running gear in due course.

Normally I'd get twitchy about this-as it makes it harder for the next guy-but as you ARE the next guy I say go for it!

AdrianH · 05-09-23, 09:07 AM

I agree – and as I will be the next guy I decided not to give future-me a hard time. Also I'd hate to be that 'PO' bodger.

Last night I got the slotted nut rotating on the shaft by using a small punch and tapping it round, then eventually got some 'L' shaped needle pliers onto it and wound it off. Basically the nuts (Febi/Bilstein) are a tight fit, almost to the point of binding, on the Koni struts. They're tight on the Bose that came off too. The old nuts from the old dampers just spin on to the Koni fine. So I think the new slotted nuts maybe just need chasing through with a tap.

I make it 13 x 1.5 unless anyone knows better?

05-09-23, 08:45 AM	#19
BackintheFold Senior Member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Near an MB ur Quattro Posts: 1,174	>>Maybe I should just fit up the top nut and forget about it seeing it doesn't want to go anywhere, and revisit when I drop the entire running gear in due course. Normally I'd get twitchy about this-as it makes it harder for the next guy-but as you ARE the next guy I say go for it! __________________ 2006 A3 (daily drive) 1987 MB ur

31-07-23, 05:04 PM	#11
AdrianH Grown up member Join Date: Jan 2014 Posts: 218	Yes too late this time unfortunately. Now I've come to terms with the whole broken spring situation I'm quite enjoying the challenge of overcoming it, as usual. Having to resist the temptation to turn it into a whole subframe/suspension restoration, brake and fuel pipe replacement, exercise. Doing this will speed that up later on though.

31-07-23, 05:48 PM	#12
Colin Aitchison Senior Member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Back home in Tillicoultry Posts: 1,311	Impact gun normally removes the 22mm top strut nut without the aid of holding the strut center allen key, need to be carful with the slotted nut in the center of the top bearing mount, but by that time the strut will be off the car.

17-08-23, 12:43 PM	#16
AdrianH Grown up member Join Date: Jan 2014 Posts: 218	All the new tools have all arrived including the elusive 2069A, which was joy to use after the shenanigans undoing the nuts on the O/S damper. I didn't follow Phil Payne's advice about obtaining a 'turnbuckle' spring compressors (literally no one else seems to call them that) ie spring compressors with the hex in the middle that pull in from both ends simultaneously. But I should have done –* I've now got some and don't think I could have removed the spring without them. Hopefully stripping the N/S strut tomorrow will take no time at all, then it's time to surrender my credit card for new dampers etc. And find some springs

04-09-23, 09:57 AM	#17
AdrianH Grown up member Join Date: Jan 2014 Posts: 218	OK money spent, parts obtained. All back together. Only one problem. The slotted nuts, top of strut –are they made from chocolate? Using the correct tool tried to torque it down –the slots just sheared off. OK, I'll remove that nut and replace with another one. Sodding thing tears out that way too. So now it's stuck in there, all mucked up, not tool I can think of able to get a decent purchase to wind it out. Anyone got any ideas? i had this with the knackered nut when I stripped down but that was easy (relatively) in that I just drilled/chiseled everything out. But his time it's a brand new damper and and brand new top mount. Maybe I should just fit up the top nut and forget about it seeing it doesn't want to go anywhere, and revisit when I drop the entire running gear in due course.

04-09-23, 04:54 PM	#18
tractor Dave Senior Member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: Wales Posts: 1,158	You are probably using the wrong tool. I've seen several aftermarket versions of this tool and none fitted properly. In the end I made my own tool. VAG one is rare to see.

05-09-23, 09:07 AM	#20
AdrianH Grown up member Join Date: Jan 2014 Posts: 218	I agree – and as I will be the next guy I decided not to give future-me a hard time. Also I'd hate to be that 'PO' bodger. Last night I got the slotted nut rotating on the shaft by using a small punch and tapping it round, then eventually got some 'L' shaped needle pliers onto it and wound it off. Basically the nuts (Febi/Bilstein) are a tight fit, almost to the point of binding, on the Koni struts. They're tight on the Bose that came off too. The old nuts from the old dampers just spin on to the Koni fine. So I think the new slotted nuts maybe just need chasing through with a tap. I make it 13 x 1.5 unless anyone knows better?