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Old 02-05-19, 07:21 AM   #11
tractor Dave
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Yes I know, I'm taking on a huge amount of work.
With my limited budget, it's the only way I will ever afford to own one.
I expect it will take a couple of years. I can weld, have a good steel fabricator down the road and can do almost everything myself. I will get a local guy to do the sand blasting and powder coating and I will take the block to a local engineer for testing/'re bore (If necessary).
The most important thing for me is that I'm buying a whole car. The mistake i made with the S2 was that lots of parts were missing. They were difficult to find and worked out very expensive to buy.
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Old 02-05-19, 07:25 AM   #12
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Oh, just to clear up my mistake, it's a late WR, not MB.
It's on a E plate and I assumed it was 88 but it's actually a late 87 reg car!
I'm still ecstatic
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Old 02-05-19, 01:53 PM   #13
AdrianH
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I've got a brand new sill for one side that I don't need (I think it's offside). Also a rear panel, i.e. the bit that joins the two rear wings that the rear lights screw into. PM me if interested.
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Old 02-05-19, 02:00 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianH View Post
I've got a brand new sill for one side that I don't need (I think it's offside). Also a rear panel, i.e. the bit that joins the two rear wings that the rear lights screw into. PM me if interested.
That's great. Hang on to it for me please. I need to get the car here first and make a full assessment. If I buy bits for it now the sale is sure to fall through!

Last edited by tractor Dave; 02-05-19 at 02:22 PM.
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Old 02-05-19, 05:46 PM   #15
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That's great news Dave. I'll be watching closely for your new arrival.

A very different animal from the S2. I think you'll love it.
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Old 02-05-19, 05:51 PM   #16
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You didnt half move quick on getting the ur!
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Old 02-05-19, 09:28 PM   #17
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Dave. Great stuff. Can I make an observation (especially as you’ve identified a WR v MB) before you go gung-ho and sand blast to a bare shell, (and I’m sure you will) but give it a thorough inspection first, because it might not need a ‘quick fix ‘ sand blast/massive reconstruction. It is a pretty invasive process and for some inexplicable reason (my own personal observations here from the 2000’s) MB’s and RR’s rusted out quicker and in more unique places earlier than WR’s.
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Old 03-05-19, 06:09 AM   #18
tractor Dave
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Thanks for the advice. I wasn't planning on stripping the whole shell back to metal unless I have to. Top end looks quite good but you don't really know until you start delving!
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Old 03-05-19, 01:19 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isimmo View Post
Dave. Great stuff. Can I make an observation (especially as you’ve identified a WR v MB) before you go gung-ho and sand blast to a bare shell, (and I’m sure you will) but give it a thorough inspection first, because it might not need a ‘quick fix ‘ sand blast/massive reconstruction. It is a pretty invasive process and for some inexplicable reason (my own personal observations here from the 2000’s) MB’s and RR’s rusted out quicker and in more unique places earlier than WR’s.
Indeed there seems to be no rhyme or reason. My first WR, '84 on a B, zero rust. Rock solid. Then a 20v H plate, rotten as a pear, serious rust everywhere. Then another WR, '87 on a D (I think) rotten rear sills, A pillar base and C pillar base –*not a spec anywhere else. The F plate MB I now have is rock solid. Except where the PO fitted mud flaps, and a bit of damage where a bus hit it in '88, it's completely rust free.



I hope.
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Old 07-05-19, 10:22 AM   #20
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I'm back looking again!
I wasn't able to collect the car last week and the seller sold to someone else (despite agreeing to sell to me and saying he didn't require a deposit!).
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