Type 44 self levelling valve

Ringmaster · 11-03-10, 06:29 PM

Hi All,

I seem to be having one problem after the other at the moment.

It looks like my self-levelling valve is leaking. My mechanic says it seems to be coming through what looks like a rivet in the valve housing. Audi say they have one at £600!

Christ! The part was only about £200 a few years ago. My mechanic wants to be sure the parts chap he spoke to was talking about the right part.

The valve is working properly nevertheless and the leak is not major. Maybe welding around the leaking part or a solution like that may work.

I'm not sure where else to look that may be likely to have such a part at a lower price.

ovalking · 11-03-10, 08:00 PM

I had to replace mine a few years ago. It had been leaking for some time but got bad enough to fail the MoT so I had to do something about it.
Cost of a new one was certainly £hundreds. I'm not aware of other sources except the used market. Which is what I resorted to (£65) in the end. (Something is not quite right with that now... I'll have a look one day).
I also saved money by not getting through so much hydraulic fluid!
Just a warning - the actual job of changing it is really difficult due to the awful access.
The SL suspension is great when it's working, but you may want to consider switching to conventional suspension depending on the condition of other components. The hydraulic system in these cars is certainly a weak point. Every hydraulic component on my car has either been replaced or needs it.
G.

Ringmaster · 12-03-10, 10:57 AM

Ovalking,

If I go for conversion back to standard suspension can the SL valve be bypassed altogether so that I don't get continuouse leakage?

I assume a pair of standard rear springs and shocks are still available?

I thought of doing this before. My mechanic ordered heavy duty springs and they elevated the rear far too high! Fortunately, in the end we the SL valve started working again so we didn't change anything. that was 8 years ago.

pimpdriver · 12-03-10, 11:36 AM

Well.... I may have a pair of normal springs and shocks available in a few weeks, when I replace my springs and shocks for lowered items.

Do you need any other items, such as rear struts? I have a spare set of these too.

Ringmaster · 12-03-10, 11:47 AM

I think all I will need is new shocks and springs. They should simply bolt in the exisiting holes. I will have a chat with my mechanic tomorrow, he should be able to see exactly what is needed.

Are the coil springs colour coded according to type? If so, what colour goes with a standard spring?

I want him to be sure the valve's casing is definitely leaking. The parts chap at Audi was surprised to hear of this leak as the unit is cast.

As far as you know though, can I simply cut off the supply of hydaulic fluid to the valve and maybe re-route the fluid back to the pump, thus isolating the rear hydarulics, so the valve won't leak if I convert to standard suspension?

ovalking · 12-03-10, 11:32 PM

On further thought, a conversion to standard suspension may not be that simple.
Aside from the struts/springs themselves, there is the brake issue. I don't understand the details but the rear brake regulator is connected to the self-levelling system. With SLS the regulator has an extra port compared to a standard one, so this will need blocking off or replacing.
I think the feed to the rear comes via the brake accumulator (bomb). Again, with SLS the accumulator has an extra port compared to standard. I guess it could be plugged here. Not sure what the return path is.
I think I'd be inclined to leave it until you tire of buying fluid!
I seem to recall reading about a conversion quite recently. Not sure if on here or another forum. Don't have time to search right now.
G.

Ringmaster · 13-03-10, 07:45 PM

I was looking at a schematic of the SLS.

What if pipe from the brake pressure reservoir is connected to manifold (next to rear near-side suspension reservoir) which connects to brake regulator, and pipe from manifold to suspension reservoir is re-directed to the return hose? Thi swill isolate the leaky valve.

This might work. Or, could there be too much pressure going to the brake regulator with this idea?

Or what if I just covered the whole SLS valve in liquid metal and hope it contains the leaking fluid?

missfire · 13-03-10, 08:35 PM

any way of getting a pic of the leak/unit up on this site..??

Ringmaster · 15-03-10, 09:14 AM

Wont be easy to get a good picture.

If you have one of the first versions of the Haynes manual for the C3 look at page 269.

There is a nice exploded view of the SLS system.

My mechanic is still thinking of a way around this. Regulator valve is shown clearly.

PIMPDRIVER, I'LL KEEP YOUR OFFER IN MIND JUST IN CASE. THANKS.

ovalking · 15-03-10, 11:44 PM

Here's one I removed earlier.

This one was leaking from the shaft.

I've shown the 'rivet' in the pic where I assume you think your's is leaking. While it might be possible to slap some sealant or something on to reduce the leak, you need to get the thing off to get at it. Pipes are right in front of it as seen in next pic. (I painted replacement blue to make it easier to see if it leaked).
It's not a job you want to do more than once, so I don't think it's worth experimenting personally.

11-03-10, 08:00 PM	#2
ovalking Grown up member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Ipswich Posts: 270	I had to replace mine a few years ago. It had been leaking for some time but got bad enough to fail the MoT so I had to do something about it. Cost of a new one was certainly £hundreds. I'm not aware of other sources except the used market. Which is what I resorted to (£65) in the end. (Something is not quite right with that now... I'll have a look one day). I also saved money by not getting through so much hydraulic fluid! Just a warning - the actual job of changing it is really difficult due to the awful access. The SL suspension is great when it's working, but you may want to consider switching to conventional suspension depending on the condition of other components. The hydraulic system in these cars is certainly a weak point. Every hydraulic component on my car has either been replaced or needs it. G.

12-03-10, 10:57 AM	#3
Ringmaster Senior Member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 1,326	Ovalking, If I go for conversion back to standard suspension can the SL valve be bypassed altogether so that I don't get continuouse leakage? I assume a pair of standard rear springs and shocks are still available? I thought of doing this before. My mechanic ordered heavy duty springs and they elevated the rear far too high! Fortunately, in the end we the SL valve started working again so we didn't change anything. that was 8 years ago.

12-03-10, 11:36 AM	#4
pimpdriver Devon Pastie Muncher Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Calne Wiltshire Posts: 7,530	Well.... I may have a pair of normal springs and shocks available in a few weeks, when I replace my springs and shocks for lowered items. Do you need any other items, such as rear struts? I have a spare set of these too.

12-03-10, 11:47 AM	#5
Ringmaster Senior Member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 1,326	I think all I will need is new shocks and springs. They should simply bolt in the exisiting holes. I will have a chat with my mechanic tomorrow, he should be able to see exactly what is needed. Are the coil springs colour coded according to type? If so, what colour goes with a standard spring? I want him to be sure the valve's casing is definitely leaking. The parts chap at Audi was surprised to hear of this leak as the unit is cast. As far as you know though, can I simply cut off the supply of hydaulic fluid to the valve and maybe re-route the fluid back to the pump, thus isolating the rear hydarulics, so the valve won't leak if I convert to standard suspension?

12-03-10, 11:32 PM	#6
ovalking Grown up member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Ipswich Posts: 270	On further thought, a conversion to standard suspension may not be that simple. Aside from the struts/springs themselves, there is the brake issue. I don't understand the details but the rear brake regulator is connected to the self-levelling system. With SLS the regulator has an extra port compared to a standard one, so this will need blocking off or replacing. I think the feed to the rear comes via the brake accumulator (bomb). Again, with SLS the accumulator has an extra port compared to standard. I guess it could be plugged here. Not sure what the return path is. I think I'd be inclined to leave it until you tire of buying fluid! I seem to recall reading about a conversion quite recently. Not sure if on here or another forum. Don't have time to search right now. G.

13-03-10, 07:45 PM	#7
Ringmaster Senior Member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 1,326	I was looking at a schematic of the SLS. What if pipe from the brake pressure reservoir is connected to manifold (next to rear near-side suspension reservoir) which connects to brake regulator, and pipe from manifold to suspension reservoir is re-directed to the return hose? Thi swill isolate the leaky valve. This might work. Or, could there be too much pressure going to the brake regulator with this idea? Or what if I just covered the whole SLS valve in liquid metal and hope it contains the leaking fluid?

13-03-10, 08:35 PM	#8
missfire making wooden things Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: cow land Posts: 8,154	any way of getting a pic of the leak/unit up on this site..??

15-03-10, 09:14 AM	#9
Ringmaster Senior Member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 1,326	Wont be easy to get a good picture. If you have one of the first versions of the Haynes manual for the C3 look at page 269. There is a nice exploded view of the SLS system. My mechanic is still thinking of a way around this. Regulator valve is shown clearly. PIMPDRIVER, I'LL KEEP YOUR OFFER IN MIND JUST IN CASE. THANKS.

15-03-10, 11:44 PM	#10
ovalking Grown up member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Ipswich Posts: 270	Here's one I removed earlier. This one was leaking from the shaft. I've shown the 'rivet' in the pic where I assume you think your's is leaking. While it might be possible to slap some sealant or something on to reduce the leak, you need to get the thing off to get at it. Pipes are right in front of it as seen in next pic. (I painted replacement blue to make it easier to see if it leaked). It's not a job you want to do more than once, so I don't think it's worth experimenting personally.