Classic Audi Technical Mech/Tech Electrical problems » Audi 80 1994 immobiliser query

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Old 04-08-16, 12:16 AM   #1
rangerovering
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Default Audi 80 1994 immobiliser query

Hi
My recent purchase seems to have its immobiliser in a twist. If I remove fuse 19 I can start the car, with it in place it fires up then cuts out after a second or so.

If I lock or unlock the car, fuse in place, the siren in the boot sounds for 3/4 seconds when locking and unlocking. Is this normal? Cos if so its bleeding annoying!
Any help much appreciated, tried to get a definitive answer via Google on this but there is limited pickings and not one gives hear symptoms.

I also only have one key, which has the single round push button for the torch but no obvious transponder chip. How does this work for disabling the immobiliser?

Thanks in advance!
Steve


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Last edited by rangerovering; 04-08-16 at 12:23 AM.
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Old 04-08-16, 05:24 PM   #2
fourringsrus
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You might get more response if you tell us which model, which year car etc
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Old 04-08-16, 05:30 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by fourringsrus View Post
You might get more response if you tell us which model, which year car etc
Look at the title of the thread fourringsrus!

Should have gone to spec savers mate

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=t8GTHXTEvIc

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Old 04-08-16, 06:16 PM   #4
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I'd say you're missing a key. When it cuts out do you get the flashing light in the instrument cluster ?

fuse 19 is for central locking and anti-theft. you also shouldn't get a noise from the siren when locking or unlocking

It's normally just a single beep from a small horn in the boot
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Old 04-08-16, 07:20 PM   #5
rangerovering
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Hi thanks for the replies.

Funny you say that mike he same thought occurred to me, I wonder if the previous owner has lost it and that's why it was sold as a non runner. I'll get the dash light flashing checked, it did do it before and the immobiliser would go off, siren sounding light flashing etc. It was a red triangle in the centre dash buttons though, next to the hazard switch I think. This model seems really basic, no on board computer etc.

Is a new key matched to the immobiliser easy to sort out? Presumably the unit will have to be sent away, I'm not sure where the code s are to program it.
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Old 04-08-16, 07:30 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rangerovering View Post

Is a new key matched to the immobiliser easy to sort out? Presumably the unit will have to be sent away, I'm not sure where the code s are to program it.
Cheers


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Don't know if your key is coded, but if it is they just transfer the code from one to the other without removing it from the original if that makes sense

If not, wonder how they do it, but am sure somebody on here will know
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Old 04-08-16, 09:30 PM   #7
fourringsrus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjp0349 View Post
Look at the title of the thread fourringsrus!

Should have gone to spec savers mate

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=t8GTHXTEvIc



Good point, well made,you are right, I went to Boots and got ripped off

Stuart
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Old 05-08-16, 12:37 PM   #8
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Good point, well made,you are right, I went to Boots and got ripped off

Stuart

That's funny Stuart
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Old 05-08-16, 12:55 PM   #9
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It's a pretty basic immobiliser set up. usually a coiled wire around the ignition barrel so the key may be fairly straightforwards.

Not sure if you could get a non immobiliser version of the ecu which may bypass the requirement for another key
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Old 05-08-16, 08:30 PM   #10
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Got a reply from the last owner, says he has only ever had this one key for the car. I just can't see where the chip is, unless it's fallen out when I opened the key....... That said it still didn't work before until the fuse was pulled.

New cap leads rotor arm and plugs on it tonight, runs better but still very lumpy. Unplugging injector 2 has zero effect and number 4 not much better. Thinking they may have got blocked, listening through a screwdriver they are all ticking........


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