Audi 100 NF engine KE Jet fuel pipes poss AAR

pimpdriver · 28-04-08, 08:46 PM

Who has a set of the 6 pipes (5 cylinders + 1 cold start valve) that go from the metering head to the injectors for a 1990 Audi 100 2.3 petrol, NF engine code (AAR from an A6 shape 2.3E may fit).

Like these:

Turbo ones don't fit, NG from an 80/90 2.3E MAY fit.

Cash waiting, one of mine has split and is weeing petrol out everywhere, in the direction of the exhaust manifold...

phone / text O7971 661221 or email steve at b41ley.com or PM

Cheers,

Steve

felekman · 23-04-15, 12:58 PM

Hello everyone. This is my 1st thread here. I fixed an oil pressure problem not long ago (was a bad sensor) and now I have problems with the cold start. Problem started a while ago and I thought was because of a defective ICV. I replaced the ICV ( have 2 spares) and nothing. Engine starts and idles fine for a few seconds, and stalls if I don't hit the gas. Even pressing the gas pedal, engine runs rough and sputters, and I can smell gasoline out of the exhaust. After 1 or 2 minutes, when it warms up, everything goes back to normal. No more smell, good idle, good response. I checked for vacuum leaks (replaced all small hoses and tested the whole intake with propane. OK), replaced the valve cover gasket (was "wet" with oil) and intake gaskets, new distributor rotor and cap, new wires and plugs, new OEM high pressure fuel pump, new filters, cleaned throttle body and valves, cleaned airflow sensor, checked WOT and idle switches...I even replaced the dipstick o-ring and the DPR o-rings. Tested voltage feeding ICV (getting full battery voltage) and connectors all around. Tested coolant temperature sensor and readings are falling within factory specs for cold/hot engine. I found that the O2 sensor, instead of fluctuating between 0.2 and 0.9v as it should be, reads only 0.24v most of the time, and changes only between 0.2 and 0.34v (cold and hot, same thing. Tried leaning the mix or adding propane, no change). But I was reading also that the O2 sensor does not "kick in" until the engine is warm, and when the engine is cold it operates on open loop mode, with default settings and without the help of the O2 sensor. If that is correct, then a bad O2 sensor should not have anything to do with my cold stalling problem. Anyone can confirm this? Thanks in advance...

OK. After a few weeks chasing the problem, I got it finally nailed. Problem was on the air shrouded system (NF engine, CIS III). The crankcase vent recirculation system put a lot of oil on the intake manifold over the years (I've never cleaned this before). It was awful around the injectors. The injection pattern without the air shroud assistance was horrible. So what I did is I took both parts of the intake manifold out, steam cleaned everything, replaced all gaskets and injectors o-rings and cleaned the injectors. Also I rerouted the hose from the crankcase vent. I took it out of the intake boot ( I don't want oil on my intake anymore), plugged the hole on the intake and put a breather filter at the end of the vent hose. Working beautifully now. Hope this info helps somebody.

audizzz · 25-04-15, 06:24 PM

Hi, if you are still stuck for your fuel pipes, re3ad my thread on parts wanted, 02/01/15.

Had them made at earls, Silverstone for £100, also have pics on the thread.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Audi Coupe Quattro Brakes and Fleix Pipes	Martc	Suspension & Brakes	23	20-04-09 09:56 PM
100 Turbo Fuel Metering Head Engine code MC	Rodders	Parts Wanted	5	10-05-08 12:52 PM
Audi 100 NF engine KE Jet fuel pipes	pimpdriver	Parts Wanted	0	30-03-08 10:46 PM
Audi 100 NF engine KE Jet fuel pipes	pimpdriver	Parts Wanted	1	29-01-08 11:45 AM
fuel pipes rusty	pimpdriver	Engine	8	24-12-07 06:35 AM

23-04-15, 12:58 PM	#2
felekman Newbie! Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: istanbul/Turkey Posts: 2	Hello everyone. This is my 1st thread here. I fixed an oil pressure problem not long ago (was a bad sensor) and now I have problems with the cold start. Problem started a while ago and I thought was because of a defective ICV. I replaced the ICV ( have 2 spares) and nothing. Engine starts and idles fine for a few seconds, and stalls if I don't hit the gas. Even pressing the gas pedal, engine runs rough and sputters, and I can smell gasoline out of the exhaust. After 1 or 2 minutes, when it warms up, everything goes back to normal. No more smell, good idle, good response. I checked for vacuum leaks (replaced all small hoses and tested the whole intake with propane. OK), replaced the valve cover gasket (was "wet" with oil) and intake gaskets, new distributor rotor and cap, new wires and plugs, new OEM high pressure fuel pump, new filters, cleaned throttle body and valves, cleaned airflow sensor, checked WOT and idle switches...I even replaced the dipstick o-ring and the DPR o-rings. Tested voltage feeding ICV (getting full battery voltage) and connectors all around. Tested coolant temperature sensor and readings are falling within factory specs for cold/hot engine. I found that the O2 sensor, instead of fluctuating between 0.2 and 0.9v as it should be, reads only 0.24v most of the time, and changes only between 0.2 and 0.34v (cold and hot, same thing. Tried leaning the mix or adding propane, no change). But I was reading also that the O2 sensor does not "kick in" until the engine is warm, and when the engine is cold it operates on open loop mode, with default settings and without the help of the O2 sensor. If that is correct, then a bad O2 sensor should not have anything to do with my cold stalling problem. Anyone can confirm this? Thanks in advance... OK. After a few weeks chasing the problem, I got it finally nailed. Problem was on the air shrouded system (NF engine, CIS III). The crankcase vent recirculation system put a lot of oil on the intake manifold over the years (I've never cleaned this before). It was awful around the injectors. The injection pattern without the air shroud assistance was horrible. So what I did is I took both parts of the intake manifold out, steam cleaned everything, replaced all gaskets and injectors o-rings and cleaned the injectors. Also I rerouted the hose from the crankcase vent. I took it out of the intake boot ( I don't want oil on my intake anymore), plugged the hole on the intake and put a breather filter at the end of the vent hose. Working beautifully now. Hope this info helps somebody.

25-04-15, 06:24 PM	#3
audizzz Grown up member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Posts: 122	Hi, if you are still stuck for your fuel pipes, re3ad my thread on parts wanted, 02/01/15. Had them made at earls, Silverstone for £100, also have pics on the thread.