WR popping at 4000rpm - Page 2

Groundhog · 23-11-18, 04:55 PM

Static timing has no relevance when the engine is running as once the engine has started the Hall effect is redundant. As already mentioned the air temperature sender is the usual suspect and the info given above to restore its effectiveness is valid, i.e it’s generally a poor or dry solder joint although it’s prudent to check the whole circuit. The other thing to check when experiencing a 4000 rpm limit is that you do not have overboost (usually caused by a blockage in the metal pipe from manifold to wastegate) but could be someone has been messing with the adjuster or spring.
As ever it is difficult to diagnose a fault remotely because at best it’s all supposition in the absence of detail. By this I mean threads often go into pages trying to diagnose a fault when the OP will suddenly reveal something along the lines of ‘its been like it since I changed the cam belt’ lo and behold the cam is a couple of teeth adrift - problem solved.

jimh · 23-11-18, 10:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joss01

Ok why is the ignition showing 43 degrees advance at 4000rpm instead of 23 degrees advance which it should be 4000rpm can any advise how to correct this mind bender.

Eh?

Some of these responses make me doubt we are talking about the same car.

You have a Ur quattro right? AKA Audi Quattro Turbo
Not a Coupe GT, or Coupe quattro or some other model 80/90/100/200 quattro etc?

How on earth are you measuring ignition timing advance?
So far, this doesn't add up to me, it seems like you're either talking about a different model of car, or maybe a garage/mechanic who doesn't know the urq is leading you in multiple wrong directions.

23-11-18, 04:55 PM	#11
Groundhog Grown up member Join Date: Nov 2009 Posts: 143	Static timing has no relevance when the engine is running as once the engine has started the Hall effect is redundant. As already mentioned the air temperature sender is the usual suspect and the info given above to restore its effectiveness is valid, i.e it’s generally a poor or dry solder joint although it’s prudent to check the whole circuit. The other thing to check when experiencing a 4000 rpm limit is that you do not have overboost (usually caused by a blockage in the metal pipe from manifold to wastegate) but could be someone has been messing with the adjuster or spring. As ever it is difficult to diagnose a fault remotely because at best it’s all supposition in the absence of detail. By this I mean threads often go into pages trying to diagnose a fault when the OP will suddenly reveal something along the lines of ‘its been like it since I changed the cam belt’ lo and behold the cam is a couple of teeth adrift - problem solved.