Car Alarm, anti-theft.

Tanni · 03-12-10, 10:50 AM

Since I would like to remove this car alarm just because it annoyes me seeing every day!
I'm advised that the wires from the sensors inside the car will be wired up with the ignition key's wires.

Yesterday we couldn't see what car alarm I've got fitted. Well me personally I wouldn't have the faintest clue anyways.

It was suggested to me it can be Scorpio or Gemini.

Who knows?

And BTW now that you're reading this thread: the cable to the inside door handle on driving side snapped when I tried to get out of my car at work today! Is it dead easy to fix? What do I need to buy?

msh · 03-12-10, 11:09 AM

Door handle - u should buy + screwdriver to remove that door handle, and, in worst case trim panel as well

After that u will see what had happened with that cable and do u need new one. That was one of first my A80 problems, which I fixed - actually I regretted after that that I bought new cable - price was ~12 pounds in local parts store. Because in junkyard that would be much cheaper.
Alarm - go ahead. Stock alarms are useless anyway. Does engine with disconnected control unit works?
B3, from which I got almost all wiring harness for my A80, was equipped with alarm, but without it, there was no problem at all. As far as I know, B3/C3/D11 stock alarms was for sound only, no "immobilisation". Dunno about newer audis.

type81 · 03-12-10, 11:32 AM

on the front passenger side footwell under the dash or behind carpet should be the main alarm box

Tanni · 03-12-10, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by msh

Alarm - go ahead. Stock alarms are useless anyway. Does engine with disconnected control unit works?
B3, from which I got almost all wiring harness for my A80, was equipped with alarm, but without it, there was no problem at all. As far as I know, B3/C3/D11 stock alarms was for sound only, no "immobilisation". Dunno about newer audis.

I think it's disconnected now and was when I bought the car, so yes, the engine works.
The only problem should be IF the old wires are connected to the ignition key or not? For THAT reason it is worth it finding out what brand the alarm is, I am told!

Quote:

Originally Posted by msh

Door handle - u should buy + screwdriver to remove that door handle, and, in worst case trim panel as well

After that u will see what had happened with that cable and do u need new one. That was one of first my A80 problems, which I fixed - actually I regretted after that that I bought new cable - price was ~12 pounds in local parts store. Because in junkyard that would be much cheaper.

Great! Sounds easy! And good advice to see what's broken or missing before I rush to Halfrauds.

Phil Payne · 03-12-10, 02:17 PM

Unfortunately alarm installers compete on time-to-fit and thus take the same shortcuts every time.

If you remove the plastic covers surrounding the top of the steering column so you can see the wiring behind the ignition switch, you will usually find a wire cut and spliced within an inch or two of the switch - typically on Audis it's a yellow wire that powers the X circuit.

On most immobilisers two such wires will be cut and connected to the immobiliser unit - unimaginatively the other one will usually be the starter motor solenoid circuit.

Such systems are only rarely removed - usually there's a key on the unit that disables it. Most people lose this key.

I've taken more alarms out than I care to remember - including my own, under a huge light in Heathrow Airport Long Term car park with no one so much as asking me the time of day.

Tanni · 03-12-10, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by type81

on the front passenger side footwell under the dash or behind carpet should be the main alarm box

Yes, counting on searching for it tomorrow till I find it!

Tanni · 03-12-10, 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil Payne

Unfortunately alarm installers compete on time-to-fit and thus take the same shortcuts every time.

If you remove the plastic covers surrounding the top of the steering column so you can see the wiring behind the ignition switch, you will usually find a wire cut and spliced within an inch or two of the switch - typically on Audis it's a yellow wire that powers the X circuit.

On most immobilisers two such wires will be cut and connected to the immobiliser unit - unimaginatively the other one will usually be the starter motor solenoid circuit.

That's a very useful explanation, thanks! Will print it and take it with me tomorrow. So I take it I can just go ahead then?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil Payne

Such systems are only rarely removed - usually there's a key on the unit that disables it. Most people lose this key.

No, wasn't there when I bought the car.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil Payne

I've taken more alarms out than I care to remember - including my own, under a huge light in Heathrow Airport Long Term car park with no one so much as asking me the time of day.

Oh dear! So either you look like a thug and they were too freightened to approach you OR you look like the AA-man and they thought you knew what you were doing?

Couperman · 03-12-10, 03:15 PM

Not sure of the procedure for removing the alarm. The door lock cable procedure is outlined at Section 11 of Haynes Manual 1491. I have had this same problem and found that the loosening of the allen screws inside the drivers door arm rest was a real pita and you will need to be carefull when removing the door panel so as not to break the plastic clips on the back. I have some photos that might help, will post them later.

Tanni · 03-12-10, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Couperman

Not sure of the procedure for removing the alarm. The door lock cable procedure is outlined at Section 11 of Haynes Manual 1491. I have had this same problem and found that the loosening of the allen screws inside the drivers door arm rest was a real pita and you will need to be carefull when removing the door panel so as not to break the plastic clips on the back. I have some photos that might help, will post them later.

Got Haynes, wil be gentle with the door panel and plastic clips!

Tanni · 04-12-10, 01:58 PM

Give us a clue, please!

What next?
Thanks!

03-12-10, 03:15 PM	#8
Couperman Smut Meister Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Newark-on-Trent Posts: 1,418	Not sure of the procedure for removing the alarm. The door lock cable procedure is outlined at Section 11 of Haynes Manual 1491. I have had this same problem and found that the loosening of the allen screws inside the drivers door arm rest was a real pita and you will need to be carefull when removing the door panel so as not to break the plastic clips on the back. I have some photos that might help, will post them later. __________________ Rod Inwood - Member 1467 1994 C4 4a 100 sport 2.6 V6, Ruby Red Pearl, 98,000 miles Previously owned :- 1988 B3 Coupe 2.3E 5 Cyl, Panther Black Metallic 1990 C4 4a 100 Saloon 2.0 ltr, Tornado Red 1994 B4 Coupe 2.6E V6, Lime Pastel 'Gelbus', 231,000 miles (Sadly written off 04/07/2015) 1994 B4 Avant 2.6E V6, Indigo Blue, 167,000 miles.

04-12-10, 01:58 PM	#10
Tanni Grown up member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Liverpool Posts: 554	Huh? Give us a clue, please! What next? Thanks! __________________ 80TDI 1.9 Avant K-reg now gone at 271500 miles A6 Avant 2.0 TDI 'cause it's pointless driving anything but Audi even if it's not a Classic

03-12-10, 11:09 AM	#2
msh 4 ring whore! Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Rucava, Latvija Posts: 3,816	Door handle - u should buy + screwdriver to remove that door handle, and, in worst case trim panel as well After that u will see what had happened with that cable and do u need new one. That was one of first my A80 problems, which I fixed - actually I regretted after that that I bought new cable - price was ~12 pounds in local parts store. Because in junkyard that would be much cheaper. Alarm - go ahead. Stock alarms are useless anyway. Does engine with disconnected control unit works? B3, from which I got almost all wiring harness for my A80, was equipped with alarm, but without it, there was no problem at all. As far as I know, B3/C3/D11 stock alarms was for sound only, no "immobilisation". Dunno about newer audis.

03-12-10, 11:32 AM	#3
type81 Senior Member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: manchester Posts: 1,691	on the front passenger side footwell under the dash or behind carpet should be the main alarm box

03-12-10, 02:17 PM	#5
Phil Payne Banned Join Date: May 2010 Location: Sheffield Posts: 1,809	Unfortunately alarm installers compete on time-to-fit and thus take the same shortcuts every time. If you remove the plastic covers surrounding the top of the steering column so you can see the wiring behind the ignition switch, you will usually find a wire cut and spliced within an inch or two of the switch - typically on Audis it's a yellow wire that powers the X circuit. On most immobilisers two such wires will be cut and connected to the immobiliser unit - unimaginatively the other one will usually be the starter motor solenoid circuit. Such systems are only rarely removed - usually there's a key on the unit that disables it. Most people lose this key. I've taken more alarms out than I care to remember - including my own, under a huge light in Heathrow Airport Long Term car park with no one so much as asking me the time of day.