urQuattro clutch operation

AdrianH · 13-06-22, 10:39 AM

How is the clutch supposed to 'feel'? Mine operates fine –*did a quite lengthy drive in mine yesterday faultlessly. But every time I drive the car after a break, or any time recently really, the clutch doesn't actually release until the pedal is almost at the full length of pedal travel. I'm sure it didn't used to be like this. There seems to be a lot of lost motion when depressing the pedal before there's any 'releasing' effect, and likewise when releasing the clutch it engages then the pedal carries on coming up. Means a bit more legwork I'm sure it didn't used to feel like this and doesn't seem quite right. But there's no loss of fluid, and take-up is smooth.*The pedal doesn't feel spongey. Is there any adjustment to fiddle with?

Hanuman · 15-06-22, 02:57 PM

It sounds a little like you should be planning the purchase of a couple of cylinders. When master and slave have failed on mine, shortly prior, the entire engage/disengage was at the furthest limit of pedal travel.

AdrianH · 15-06-22, 03:30 PM

Thanks –*looks like I'll be reaching for the credit card again. Also, hope all well with you.

BackintheFold · 15-06-22, 03:55 PM

Start with the slave. Its easier and if it fixes your problem then stop!
If it doesn't, then you may need to change the master.
If you don't mind cutting a hole in your scuttle, you can create much easier access to the master...

Colin Aitchison · 16-06-22, 08:28 AM

I am with backinthefold start with the slave cylinder first, getting the roll pin out can be a bugger, I used a length of M8 threaded rod with the end reduced to 6mm diameter over 75mm, the full length was over 1 meter, remove the driver side wheel and you can see the slave cylinder pin hole on the top of the gearbox, you will need another pair of hands to hold the rod on the pin on the gearbox as you drive the pin out with a hammer from the driver side wheel arch, you may or may not find a 'C' shape spring clip through the roll pin, remove it first, as for refitting the roll pin DON'T use a 75mm long M6 bolt and nyloc nut, as for removing the slave cylinder after the pin is out good luck normally they can be quite well stuck due to corrosion between the alloy gearbox and steel slave cylinder, try to rotate the slave cylinder in the mounting hole, when refitting use copper slip grease on the slave cylinder before refitting, this will help in future removals, as for the master cylinder I have a different solution, don't try to remove and refit the master cylinder in place, remove the full pedal box, yes both front seat will have to come out and front carpet, you will have to remove pins from brake linkage, but this can be done with no damage to your car.

15-06-22, 02:57 PM	#2
Hanuman Trickster Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Heckling from the cheap seats, Phnom Penh, KoW Posts: 7,020	It sounds a little like you should be planning the purchase of a couple of cylinders. When master and slave have failed on mine, shortly prior, the entire engage/disengage was at the furthest limit of pedal travel. __________________ I wish they would keep the damned Chinese away now that I can go home, so that I can enjoy Fish amok and a draught Angkor

15-06-22, 03:55 PM	#4
BackintheFold Senior Member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Near an MB ur Quattro Posts: 1,191	Start with the slave. Its easier and if it fixes your problem then stop! If it doesn't, then you may need to change the master. If you don't mind cutting a hole in your scuttle, you can create much easier access to the master... __________________ 2014 S3 (daily drive) 1987 MB ur

15-06-22, 03:30 PM	#3
AdrianH Grown up member Join Date: Jan 2014 Posts: 218	Thanks –*looks like I'll be reaching for the credit card again. Also, hope all well with you.

16-06-22, 08:28 AM	#5
Colin Aitchison Senior Member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Back home in Tillicoultry Posts: 1,321	I am with backinthefold start with the slave cylinder first, getting the roll pin out can be a bugger, I used a length of M8 threaded rod with the end reduced to 6mm diameter over 75mm, the full length was over 1 meter, remove the driver side wheel and you can see the slave cylinder pin hole on the top of the gearbox, you will need another pair of hands to hold the rod on the pin on the gearbox as you drive the pin out with a hammer from the driver side wheel arch, you may or may not find a 'C' shape spring clip through the roll pin, remove it first, as for refitting the roll pin DON'T use a 75mm long M6 bolt and nyloc nut, as for removing the slave cylinder after the pin is out good luck normally they can be quite well stuck due to corrosion between the alloy gearbox and steel slave cylinder, try to rotate the slave cylinder in the mounting hole, when refitting use copper slip grease on the slave cylinder before refitting, this will help in future removals, as for the master cylinder I have a different solution, don't try to remove and refit the master cylinder in place, remove the full pedal box, yes both front seat will have to come out and front carpet, you will have to remove pins from brake linkage, but this can be done with no damage to your car.