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Old 17-07-15, 10:16 PM   #11
gazza1971
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Got the car back today all fixed it was the Lamda sensor which was fitted back 2013 the cable from it had rubbed through on a drive shaft and shorting out the emissions was all over the place with the pipe up the exhaust .Repaired and cable tied out the way the car idles perfect spot on emissions codes erased and runs lots better all for the cost of £65 .
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Old 23-07-15, 03:07 PM   #12
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Just took the car out for a run out as off from work had dinner driving home 50 mile round trip the temp gauge drops to zero and it won't idle just cuts out the original fault looks like it's back had it code read clear. Any ideas temp sensor causing this ?


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Old 24-07-15, 06:28 AM   #13
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Anybody any ideas please ?
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Old 24-07-15, 06:46 AM   #14
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Worth checking the plug to the sender hasn't just parted company with the sender. Should be on the RHS near to inlet manifold I think? Corrosion at the terminal block can be an issue too.
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Old 24-07-15, 07:47 AM   #15
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Thanks John I will give that a go .
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Old 31-08-15, 08:13 AM   #16
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Had the car in another garage they changed the coolant temp sender no codes in the ECU . Had the car out yesterday drove it 5 miles switched off came to go out around 30 mins after it cuts out will not idle every junction struggles to start as if its struggling for fuel .About ready to call time on this now is there any body who knows who can fix this problem please im based in Derby. I only bought it as a weekend car for summer as I always admired them when I was younger
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Old 31-08-15, 11:33 AM   #17
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Apart from the idle, does it run well otherwise?

I take it you're not one to get the tools out and have a go yourself?. As The Real MSH! suggests, it could be the idle switch is intermittent, so the idle control system is not kicking in. When the fault occurs, locate the engine end of the throttle cable, where it goes around the plastic guide and try lightly forcing the throttle fully home (using the plastic guide, not the metal one with the nipple)



The switch is enclosed in the black block underneath with the wire going to the three pin connector, check out this connector to see if it's dirty, as this may also account for the poor starting.
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Old 31-08-15, 12:45 PM   #18
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Not for many years now no been office bound to long but what you have described I will get checked tomorrow .There is a throttle body on Ebay if I get all of it changed would that cure it ?
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Old 31-08-15, 12:56 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazza1971 View Post
There is a throttle body on Ebay if I get all of it changed would that cure it ?
Only if yours is faulty in the first place, otherwise, no.
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Old 31-08-15, 05:55 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazza1971 View Post
Its worth a gamble as what else can be causing it going back over the past invoices most things was changed by the last owner who gave up and sold it
All that proves is swapping out parts on a hunch doesn't work. I was suggesting a possible fault, which can be fixed by adjustment with no parts needed. Maybe you need to find an old school garage that have mechanics aged over 40 rather than technicians under 30, the older, the better. You are more than welcome to bring it over to Stockport and I'll have a look

Vauxhall did the swapping out of parts on my Dad's new Cavalier SR (carb version) to try and sort the pinking/rattling sound on acceleration. It was only after replacing the cylinder head that they found my Dad's spark plug socket that had dropped behind the radiator.
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