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Old 09-12-13, 02:54 AM   #71
missfire
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Can't remember if it was you.. but someone was showing and earth strap from the coil area and didn't know where it was supposed to go. I have one that goes to one of the bolts on the cam cover. Maybe wasn't you who knows. Wouldn't make much odds anyway in terms of the starter probably.

Charged battery - check
Battery earth - check
Engine earth straps?
Is it really hard to get the starter out? How long has it been sitting? A little van I had you could squirt some WD into a tiny hole in the starter solenoid and smack it with a hammer while someone held the key in starter position. Dash lights going off when in cranking position indicates a voltage demand at the starter does it not? Like the starter is seized? You'll get it soon! Use the force.
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Old 09-12-13, 07:26 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by missfire View Post
Can't remember if it was you.. but someone was showing and earth strap from the coil area and didn't know where it was supposed to go. I have one that goes to one of the bolts on the cam cover. Maybe wasn't you who knows. Wouldn't make much odds anyway in terms of the starter probably.

Charged battery - check
Battery earth - check
Engine earth straps?
Is it really hard to get the starter out? How long has it been sitting? A little van I had you could squirt some WD into a tiny hole in the starter solenoid and smack it with a hammer while someone held the key in starter position. Dash lights going off when in cranking position indicates a voltage demand at the starter does it not? Like the starter is seized? You'll get it soon! Use the force.
Thanks for the info. Checked engine earthing and that's all ok - as it should be. It's been standing for 15 or so months, I'm going to see if I can see it tonight and check the wiring - it's a right bugger to get to!
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Old 09-12-13, 06:42 PM   #73
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check-

Relay box. All the relays in position. It may even pay dividends to remove and reseat each one.
Starter link. The large copper bus link in the location where the auto box/park relay sits. Can't member it's location.

When the ignition is turned on to first position, the solenoid on the bulkhead, to the passenger side of the hydraulic reservoir should click. there should be 12v here.

Immobiliser.
It may be worth disconnecting the battery, waiting a mo, and reconnecting, if you haven't already done that. Then disarm it again.
I hate the bloody things. Many have small relay circuits which after some years use, and more disuse, simply refuse to pass current.
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Old 09-12-13, 07:26 PM   #74
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does not matter where dizzy is as long as the the rotor arm lines up with the mark on the body with the engine at tdc.
So, this is where building to photo's and screw in what looks like should be screwed in comes a bit unstuck.

The distributor was refitted 180' to where it normally was, but, as I was building to an old photo I put the cap on the way it used to be... i.e. 180' out! Turned the bugger around and it starts cranking and if I'd kept it up would have eventually fired, however when I stopped turning it over I could hear fluids leak....

Turns out I've got fuel leaking from these two lines here:





I've done the bolts on both of these up as tight as I'd dare but there's still a very small leak and sounds like a radiator when you open the bleed valve by the tiniest amount.

I just reused the bolts that were in it originally, should there be washers or 'o' rings around these too? How should I go about stopping the leak
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Old 09-12-13, 07:33 PM   #75
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The two banjo's should have a washer top and bottom brass or alloy I find that the alloy ones are the better fit as brass isn't soft enough any more..



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Old 09-12-13, 07:36 PM   #76
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Should have new crush washers fitted
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Old 09-12-13, 07:37 PM   #77
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The two banjo's should have a washer top and bottom brass or alloy I find that the alloy ones are the better fit as brass isn't soft enough any more..



..
Copper ones are best perhaps
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Old 09-12-13, 07:40 PM   #78
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Copper ones are best perhaps

Thats the boys same colour



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Old 09-12-13, 07:45 PM   #79
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Perfecto. Anyone off the top of their heads know what sizes? I know one bolts got a 14mm head and the other a 13mm
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Old 09-12-13, 08:09 PM   #80
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8 x 11.5,(x 1 mm). 2 off

10 x 13.5, (x 1mm) 2 off




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