Classic Audi » Technical » Mech/Tech » Suspension & Brakes » 100 Avant CV joint boot change

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Old 17-02-13, 03:12 PM   #11
4v6
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Normally youd open the circlip located at the rear of the cv joint and tap the whole thing off the shaft after disconnecting it from the hub, the only issue being if its a tight fit, can make it a pain in the arse.
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Old 17-02-13, 03:26 PM   #12
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Normally youd open the circlip located at the rear of the cv joint and tap the whole thing off the shaft after disconnecting it from the hub, the only issue being if its a tight fit, can make it a pain in the arse.
But I'd need to disconnect the bottom arm in order to get the hub out of the way? As you say it's a tight fit, everything is covered in grease and shit so you can't see what you're doing. Taking the shaft off and swapping it on the bench just seems easier, or am I missing something?
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Old 17-02-13, 05:06 PM   #13
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Nah its definitely easier to do on the bench, its not always absolutely necessary tho.
If you find it easier then go that route, its a bit more work but gives better access.
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Old 17-02-13, 05:42 PM   #14
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As you can see, you can't get it on your bench. Besides, if you're doing it according to bentley/haynes/whatever manual, you should worry that gasket which is between inner CV joint and gearbox flange have aged In any case - I wouldn't bother removing whole driveshaft.

P.S. If that rubber boot kit contains some washers etc - don't use them

P.P.S. I hope you will tighten braces [or whatever you call them] with pincers.
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Old 18-02-13, 03:30 PM   #15
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I had another look at the inner joint yesterday and a couple of the bolt heads look a little bit chewed up so I'm thinking I might do it without taking it off the car after all. If I buy another socket then can't use it, it's bound to put me in a foul mood.
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Old 18-02-13, 03:34 PM   #16
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I had another look at the inner joint yesterday and a couple of the bolt heads look a little bit chewed up so I'm thinking I might do it without taking it off the car after all. If I buy another socket then can't use it, it's bound to put me in a foul mood.
Someones probably had a go using a normal Allen/hex key The correct 10mm splined key should get them moving without an issue, just be sure to spray WD40 or similar on the diff flange that the bolts screw into...
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Old 18-02-13, 06:02 PM   #17
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That's the reason to buy cheap kit of star, torx and hexagonal bits. After all, it's 99% guaranteed that you will get messed up bolt out by hammering in bigger bit
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Old 18-02-13, 06:26 PM   #18
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I just use a rounded chisel to tap the heads of them sideways to break their grip, they come out easy after that generally.
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