Drivers side electric window GT5 Coupe 1984

Dablad75 · 22-05-10, 11:09 PM

Hi all, this is my first "help"! question.
My drivers side electric window has stopped working, only just bought the car but when I first got it it was quite slow and noisy, now it doest move at all. When I press the switch I think I can hear a noise as if it's trying and also the voltmeter drops a tiny bit - does this rule out a fuse? any advice would be gladly appreciated. Cheers, Dave

BIGGYIN · 22-05-10, 11:12 PM

Could be the actual switch?
Swop over switches(right,left),if it work it,s the switch.

5potnoodle · 23-05-10, 02:48 AM

Sounds like the cable in the mech has snapped through old age/rust.

impsdude · 23-05-10, 05:01 AM

I have the same problem on my 83' coupe. Any hel would be good.

Dablad75 · 23-05-10, 09:47 AM

Right, took door panel off and the cable is still in place - does this rule out a snapped cable or is there more than one? I can definitely hear a click sound coming from somewhere when I press the switch and the volmeter drops, is there a relay relating to the windows anywhere? I popped the switches out but dont have a soldering iron so havent tried swapping them over. If I do need a new motor and cables is it an easy job? and any suggestions where to get them from? - thanks!!!

20vcqdriver · 23-05-10, 10:06 AM

The early electric window motors were prone to sticking as the motor brushes wore down. If the door panel is off try and get a multimeter onto the motor terminals and see if you get 12v (or therabouts) when you operate the switch. If you do, the motor needs a service/replacement. Can be repaired if you know where to get brushes and commutator has not worn down too much...

paulcunningham · 23-05-10, 01:21 PM

It sounds like the cable has chewed up, i managed to swap over the cable and motor only from an 80. Slider rails was different. I have since heard that there are a few companies about that will replace the cables.

When it happend to me (on the way back from collecting the car in Hampshire, rainy day) it was half open all the way back. Did keep me awake though.

Emjay · 23-05-10, 02:06 PM

this is a well known problem for which there can be many different solutions.

When my drivers side stopped working the fault was traced to the connector block at the switch end. It seems there was a significant voltage drop across the connector which made the window move slowly. The connecort blocks were remove and repalced with spade connectors. Put back together and hey presto, window works fine. Could be worth checking and certainly could be easier and cheaper than taking the whole window mechanism out. All for the price of a set of connectors from Halfords

22-05-10, 11:12 PM	#2
BIGGYIN 4 ring whore! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Merseyside Posts: 7,976	Could be the actual switch? Swop over switches(right,left),if it work it,s the switch. __________________ q90 B2 Type 85 - q90 B2 Type 85-PROJECT-ABY 20vt KARL. Injection is nice but I'd rather be blown

23-05-10, 02:48 AM	#3
5potnoodle OCD member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Lincolnshire, England. Posts: 196	Sounds like the cable in the mech has snapped through old age/rust. __________________ Current: 99 Subaru Forester S-Turbo Auto - interesting... but it's not a quattro 91 Reliant Scimitar SST 1400 - no.39 of 42... something for the weekend Previous: Two consecutive 1989 Audi 200 Quattro Turbo Avant, 1B 1990 Audi 100 SE Avant, NF 1986 Audi 100 CD Avant, KU 1987 VW Passat GL5E Estate, JS "Honorary" triple member of the 200,000+ Club Audi 200 in the UK (legacy website) Classic Audi member no: 258

23-05-10, 10:06 AM	#6
20vcqdriver 4 ring whore! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Wirral Posts: 3,910	The early electric window motors were prone to sticking as the motor brushes wore down. If the door panel is off try and get a multimeter onto the motor terminals and see if you get 12v (or therabouts) when you operate the switch. If you do, the motor needs a service/replacement. Can be repaired if you know where to get brushes and commutator has not worn down too much... __________________ Coupe quattro 1986:-~450bhp + loooong list of mods! Audi A7 Bi-TDI SLine Black edition 2015 mapped to produce 600lb/ft torque! Audi S4 4.2 V8 cabriolet 2004:-

23-05-10, 05:01 AM	#4
impsdude Grown up member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: West Wales Posts: 242	I have the same problem on my 83' coupe. Any hel would be good.

23-05-10, 09:47 AM	#5
Dablad75 Grown up member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 32	Right, took door panel off and the cable is still in place - does this rule out a snapped cable or is there more than one? I can definitely hear a click sound coming from somewhere when I press the switch and the volmeter drops, is there a relay relating to the windows anywhere? I popped the switches out but dont have a soldering iron so havent tried swapping them over. If I do need a new motor and cables is it an easy job? and any suggestions where to get them from? - thanks!!!

23-05-10, 01:21 PM	#7
paulcunningham Grown up member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Chorley Posts: 37	It sounds like the cable has chewed up, i managed to swap over the cable and motor only from an 80. Slider rails was different. I have since heard that there are a few companies about that will replace the cables. When it happend to me (on the way back from collecting the car in Hampshire, rainy day) it was half open all the way back. Did keep me awake though.

23-05-10, 02:06 PM	#8
Emjay Man Fettler Extraodinaire Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Up my own arse blowing smoke Posts: 7,417	this is a well known problem for which there can be many different solutions. When my drivers side stopped working the fault was traced to the connector block at the switch end. It seems there was a significant voltage drop across the connector which made the window move slowly. The connecort blocks were remove and repalced with spade connectors. Put back together and hey presto, window works fine. Could be worth checking and certainly could be easier and cheaper than taking the whole window mechanism out. All for the price of a set of connectors from Halfords