Ur MB hydraulic clutch adjustment

[tractor Dave]

Just done the master on my Ur and yes, adjustment is made by lengthening of shortening the clevis rod.
I would post pics but the forum no longer supports tapatalk.

[Hanuman]

Originally Posted by tractor Dave

I would post pics but the forum no longer supports tapatalk.

Again? I thought this got fixed. I believe the problem is Tapatalk has moved on, technically, but the forum is running some old code. Or something. The add-in thingy was tweaked, twerked a few months ago after I contacted Tapatalk. I wonder if that might be possible again?

[84CoupeGT]

You can upload photos to postimages.org and then cut and paste the "hotlink for forums" into your post and the photo will appear. That's what I do anyway, and it's very easy.

[AdrianH]

Originally Posted by tractor Dave

Just done the master on my Ur and yes, adjustment is made by lengthening of shortening the clevis rod.
I would post pics but the forum no longer supports tapatalk.

Does that adjust the clutch bite point or just the height of the pedal relative to the other pedals? The clutch pedal needs to be almost fully depressed before it disengages.

[BackintheFold]

Its a stupid rod. It has the same standard thread on both ends. If one were clockwise and one anticlockwise, you could adjust the length simply by rotating the rod in situ.

[tractor Dave]

Originally Posted by BackintheFold

Its a stupid rod. It has the same standard thread on both ends. If one were clockwise and one anticlockwise, you could adjust the length simply by rotating the rod in situ.

No. It's only threaded at the clevis end. The end going into the master is just a ball end.

[tractor Dave]

Originally Posted by AdrianH

Does that adjust the clutch bite point or just the height of the pedal relative to the other pedals? The clutch pedal needs to be almost fully depressed before it disengages.

From Phil's guide, it needs setting up so as to give full range of rod movement. If yours has been replaced incorrectly, it will affect where pedal bite is.

[BackintheFold]

Think we are talking at cross purposes here-and also the WR setup "appears" different from the MB.

I'm talking about this rod (number 9)

https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+qu...6/7/721-59010/

You are referring to the rod shown entering the clutch master-shown above number 9.

[AdrianH]

So we're talking about 857 721 501? Which if my thinking is correct should be wound 'in' to make it shorter, and so extend the travel of the lever?

Sometime I wish I'd stuck to Triumphs

[BackintheFold]

Originally Posted by tractor Dave

Just done the master on my Ur and yes, adjustment is made by lengthening of shortening the clevis rod.
I would post pics but the forum no longer supports tapatalk.

When adjusting this rod (that has a fork at one end and goes in to the master cylinder into a "cup" at the other end), all you can do is make one end touch the master cylinder cup, while the other end sits neatly so as to allow the pin to fit through the fork and the lever at the other end when the system is "at rest". Lets call this Dave's rod.

the other parts of the system can be adjusted to affect the biting point(EDIT-that is, the position on the arc that the clutch pedal travels where the clutch disengages)-the length of the slave rod and the 857 721 501 rod with threads at both ends. Stuart's rod.
Of course, adjusting the slave rod length (should be 87.5mm) and Stuart's rod means you have to adjust Dave's rod to get it all to sit at rest-ie not pushing the clutch release bearing or putting pressure on the master cylinder cup.


I have a Mk3 Spitfire. Simpler by far!!


At least, that's what i think is right.