peeling lacquer

[pimpdriver]

THis is a pic of the boot lid on my 1986 80CL.





It is the original paint as its got the original dealer supplying stickers on it.

By the CL badge I have tried metallic paint t cut, but not with any success.

Anything to try, without respraying it? (I'm after an easy fix if possible, if not, I'm not too bothered).

Cheers,

Steve

[Coxy]

Once the lacquer has gone, no amount of polishing will save it. T Cut is a very abrasive polish and will only make it worse to be honest. and the clearcoat has already been impaired.
You could wet sand down the area and lay on some clearcoat. Where it's crazed, you will need to wetsand it down to get rind of the crazing marks.
It's not as difficult as it sounds and it's not going to cost much to do it.

[pimpdriver]

Originally Posted by Coxy

Once the lacquer has gone, no amount of polishing will save it. T Cut is a very abrasive polish and will only make it worse to be honest. and the clearcoat has already been impaired.
You could wet sand down the area and lay on some clearcoat. Where it's crazed, you will need to wetsand it down to get rind of the crazing marks.
It's not as difficult as it sounds and it's not going to cost much to do it.

Thanks for the reply. What kind of wetsand paper? 1200, 2400, by hand or on a sander?

Is "clearcoat" clear lacquer? Is it from Halfords or any particular brand to look for?

Thanks
Steve

[Coxy]

The clearcoat is clear lacquer, which you can pick up at Halfords and most other motor factors. I use Holts but I'm sure it's no better or worse than any other brand.
For wetsanding and area like that, you could use 1200 as you are trying to remove the clearcoat itself. I use 2000 when doing correction (main reason is cos I've got a shed load of the stuff!!), although it will take longer to remove the clearcoat. The blending in will be the hardest as you're bound to see a line when it's done between the old and the new.
Easiest way it to do the whole lot!!
It will more than likely look very orange peely when done but don't worry about that! Let it harden properly for about 1-2 weeks then you can either carefully wetsand it down or get a polisher and some abrasive polish on it! (Not T Cut! though!)

[pimpdriver]

polish? someone mentioned G3???

[Coxy]

Originally Posted by pimpdriver

polish? someone mentioned G3???

G3 is very abrasive. More of a cutting compound. More used by rotary after paint. It'll do the trick by hand but you'll need a finer polish on top to get rid of the scratches that G3 will leave. Something like Autoglyms Super Resin Polish (SRP) which will give it a good shine. It's harder to get good results by hand but with patience and elbow grease you can start to get somewhere close.