timeing belt change on cq

irish80sport · 18-07-09, 05:20 PM

hi guys, need some advice on servicing etc on a cq i just bought. The fella i bought it off says i need a special tool for changing the timeing belt? is this true? im not doing the job myself but my mechanic has never worked on a kv engine before so i dont want it to go wrong. anything else i should use/change when im getting it serviced? any help would be most appreciated.

Puglife · 18-07-09, 08:18 PM

Yes to undo the lower crank pulley you need a locking tool which stops the crankshaft turning whilst you undo the main bolt (this is on very tight).
When redoing the bolt up you need to do it up to 350lb/ft.

Other than that its relatively straight forward, timing belt is tensioned on the water pump which is held by three bolts.

irish80sport · 18-07-09, 08:37 PM

sound job, are they vehicle specific or do all mechanics have one that does all cars? and if i need to get one is it a main dealer job? i also wonder is it worth changing the water pump when the belt is off and are there any other belts should be done at the same time for handiness ?

Puglife · 18-07-09, 08:46 PM

Specific to the 5 pot audi lump, main dealers wont lend you them unless your really really friendly with someone high up in the technician sector.
I borrowed my neighbours homemade tool, its just a thick plate with a piece of pipe welded in with a notch in it. The tool is special tool 2026 iirc. Ask your dealer but they'll prob say they only use their tools within their workshop.

Water pump is only £30 so best replacing, and i'd do the alternator and Power steering belts as well whilst its all out.

mikes2 · 19-07-09, 09:24 PM

you need the VAG 2084 for locking the crank.

It's about £30-£35 from a dealer

SteveT63 · 19-07-09, 09:54 PM

Wow!

Someone is make a killing on flea. They are at a buy now price of £75 !

TheTwelveQuidKid · 20-07-09, 01:19 AM

** Disclaimer **

Use this method at your own risk. No responsibility or guilt trips accepted for any engine damage !!

I changed the belt on a 5 pot some years ago (saloon non quattro), without special tools. Removed the radiator grille and the lower plastic grille. This provided access to the crank pulley bolt. Found the correct size socket (can't remember which size, it was quite a long time ago). Used a T bar and a short extension bar (three quarter drive Draper socket set). Placed it horizontal, with a scissor jack under the short extension bar to reduce the risk of the socket coming off. I put an axle stand near the end of the T bar. Left it so there were a few inches between the axle stand and the end of the bar. Disconnected the coil. Turned the ignition key. The T bar hit the axle stand and stopped. The engine rotated and the crank pulley bolt came loose enough to undo with a ratchet.

If you try this method, make sure you understand the risk that the socket and handle could go flying off and cause injury or damage.

The car had a manual gearbox. When refitting I used loctite and put it in gear, with bricks to stop the wheels moving while I tightened the bolt.

20vcqdriver · 20-07-09, 07:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheTwelveQuidKid

** Disclaimer **

Use this method at your own risk. No responsibility or guilt trips accepted for any engine damage !!

I changed the belt on a 5 pot some years ago (saloon non quattro), without special tools. Removed the radiator grille and the lower plastic grille. This provided access to the crank pulley bolt. Found the correct size socket (can't remember which size, it was quite a long time ago). Used a T bar and a short extension bar (three quarter drive Draper socket set). Placed it horizontal, with a scissor jack under the short extension bar to reduce the risk of the socket coming off. I put an axle stand near the end of the T bar. Left it so there were a few inches between the axle stand and the end of the bar. Disconnected the coil. Turned the ignition key. The T bar hit the axle stand and stopped. The engine rotated and the crank pulley bolt came loose enough to undo with a ratchet.

If you try this method, make sure you understand the risk that the socket and handle could go flying off and cause injury or damage.

The car had a manual gearbox. When refitting I used loctite and put it in gear, with bricks to stop the wheels moving while I tightened the bolt.

Er, yikes. Not recommended really. I made my own tool too from bits of scrap pipe fittings at work. Works a treat but if it has been put on properly You will need a 3/4 " drive. would also recommend putting a bit of 'thread lock' on the threads too.
I tightened mine down to 250Lb/ft (Max of my torque wrench) and liberal thread lock solution and no issues each time I have done it and still always a sod to remove the thing each time too...

irish80sport · 08-08-09, 04:54 PM

is 350lb/ft the correct amount when tightening it up ? or is it just a question of as getting as tight as you can?

Micky · 08-08-09, 05:20 PM

My special tool a big screwdriver pushed down the teeth on the fly wheel

18-07-09, 08:18 PM	#2
Puglife ==>PUGSPORT!<== Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Leyland Posts: 1,544	Yes to undo the lower crank pulley you need a locking tool which stops the crankshaft turning whilst you undo the main bolt (this is on very tight). When redoing the bolt up you need to do it up to 350lb/ft. Other than that its relatively straight forward, timing belt is tensioned on the water pump which is held by three bolts. __________________ 1986 UR Quattro - (1982) Lombard RAC Group 4 recreation - #24 H.Demuth/J.Daniels 1981 VW mk1 golf GTi - now 5cylinder and RWD.

18-07-09, 08:46 PM	#4
Puglife ==>PUGSPORT!<== Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Leyland Posts: 1,544	Specific to the 5 pot audi lump, main dealers wont lend you them unless your really really friendly with someone high up in the technician sector. I borrowed my neighbours homemade tool, its just a thick plate with a piece of pipe welded in with a notch in it. The tool is special tool 2026 iirc. Ask your dealer but they'll prob say they only use their tools within their workshop. Water pump is only £30 so best replacing, and i'd do the alternator and Power steering belts as well whilst its all out. __________________ 1986 UR Quattro - (1982) Lombard RAC Group 4 recreation - #24 H.Demuth/J.Daniels 1981 VW mk1 golf GTi - now 5cylinder and RWD.

19-07-09, 09:24 PM	#5
mikes2 4 ring whore! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Polmont Posts: 2,617	you need the VAG 2084 for locking the crank. It's about £30-£35 from a dealer __________________ 1991 90 quattro 20v sport 1991 90 quattro

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18-07-09, 08:37 PM	#3
irish80sport Grown up member Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 79	sound job, are they vehicle specific or do all mechanics have one that does all cars? and if i need to get one is it a main dealer job? i also wonder is it worth changing the water pump when the belt is off and are there any other belts should be done at the same time for handiness ?

19-07-09, 09:54 PM	#6
SteveT63 Senior Member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 3,045	Wow! Someone is make a killing on flea. They are at a buy now price of £75 !

20-07-09, 01:19 AM	#7
TheTwelveQuidKid Grown up member Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 422	Disclaimer Use this method at your own risk. No responsibility or guilt trips accepted for any engine damage !! I changed the belt on a 5 pot some years ago (saloon non quattro), without special tools. Removed the radiator grille and the lower plastic grille. This provided access to the crank pulley bolt. Found the correct size socket (can't remember which size, it was quite a long time ago). Used a T bar and a short extension bar (three quarter drive Draper socket set). Placed it horizontal, with a scissor jack under the short extension bar to reduce the risk of the socket coming off. I put an axle stand near the end of the T bar. Left it so there were a few inches between the axle stand and the end of the bar. Disconnected the coil. Turned the ignition key. The T bar hit the axle stand and stopped. The engine rotated and the crank pulley bolt came loose enough to undo with a ratchet. If you try this method, make sure you understand the risk that the socket and handle could go flying off and cause injury or damage. The car had a manual gearbox. When refitting I used loctite and put it in gear, with bricks to stop the wheels moving while I tightened the bolt.

08-08-09, 04:54 PM	#9
irish80sport Grown up member Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 79	is 350lb/ft the correct amount when tightening it up ? or is it just a question of as getting as tight as you can?

08-08-09, 05:20 PM	#10
Micky Mr Fifty Thousand! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 8,738	My special tool a big screwdriver pushed down the teeth on the fly wheel