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#1 | |
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Grown up member
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 284
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Evening people
I'll keep it brief, I know that not everyone is interested in my main project thread hence why I'm posting this as an outright thread itself. My coupe failed it's mot on a few little bits which I can do for little expense, however one item that it failed on was the break pressure regulator/load valve being inoperative. I'm pretty sure it's just seized from where the car has sat still for so long. How does it work ? Can it be "serviced" ie. Wd-40 and a bit of wiggling around etc. Has anyone got a picture/ diagram etc ? And has anyone had an experience with them ? Are they worth trying to service ? Or is it easier to just replace it. At £95 I'd rather have a go at servicing or repairing etc so any help or suggestions is greatly appreciated. Many Thanks Sam
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1990 Audi Coupe 2.3E 10v |
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#2 |
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“Been raced and rallied”
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Bridgwater Somerset
Posts: 1,431
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If the hammer and duck oil doesn't work then theres always Ebin..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAKE-POWE...item2c6be95a4f ..
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Vorspurng durch Technik (see it does work) ![]() |
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#3 |
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Grown up member
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 284
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I did have a sniff on eBay but I could only find them for around £85-100 quid, that link you gave me ? Is that definitely the right part ?
Thanks Sam
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1990 Audi Coupe 2.3E 10v |
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#4 |
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“Been raced and rallied”
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Bridgwater Somerset
Posts: 1,431
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You will have to have a good look at the one on your car and see if its the same..
..
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Vorspurng durch Technik (see it does work) ![]() |
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#5 |
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Newbie!
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: York
Posts: 17
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Worth trying to fix as they are quite straightforward. It is probably the pivot pin that has seized.
More information here: http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/troubl...ing/brake.html |
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#6 |
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Grown up member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Ashford Kent
Posts: 468
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Thanks for the link, on my boys behalf
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#7 |
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Grown up member
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 284
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Yep thanks for the link MEX, made things a bit clearer, so will be having a go at that next time the weather has a break. Thanks again
Sam
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1990 Audi Coupe 2.3E 10v |
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#8 |
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Grown up member
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 284
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Evening gang, over the weekend we set about attacking the few bits that had failed the MOT, top mounts are done, which left us with this regulator to attack ...
The falkrum looks as if one of the pins that holds it in place has broken and a spring is missing ? so there is alot of mevement in the plate, however i dont know what they look like out of the factory ... we sprayed around with penetrating fluid and prodded and poked about ... How much should the pistons move ? the pistins are moving around 2mm ? they move when the pedal is pressed and released .. should they be moving more ? or does the whole thing have to be taken off (releived of fluid pressure) to get them to move more ? Thanks people Sam
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1990 Audi Coupe 2.3E 10v |
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#9 |
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Grown up member
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 284
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Hi people
Really need some advice on this now, I've decides to replace the regulator, there are two types of regulator fitted to the cars in 1990, a single piston unit and a twin piston unit. I have spoken to Audi directly and they have said that by the prices of elimination mine should have a single piston unit. My car has a TWIN piston unit. Does anyone know which one SHOULD be on the car ? If not, does it make a difference ? If I fitted the single piston unit would it still work ? I'm hoping to get this wrapped up asap as Can get either part on the shelf, but I want to know which one I should go for. Please guys, any help really really appreciated. Thanks Sam
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1990 Audi Coupe 2.3E 10v |
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