Audi 100 (C3) CV Boot Advice

jwalshe · 13-04-11, 05:54 PM

Hello all,

Car (1991 C3 100 2.0 e) is currently with local garage who say the split CV boot could spell a dozen other problems in replacement. Are they pulling my leg or should the job be fairly simple?

It's the offside one that's gone. Car was making a gentle whining sound when accelerating and only started doing it shortly after the boot split.

At this stage, if they start throwing huge bills my way I may be unable to afford the repairs!

Anyone got any knowledge of this kind of work?

Thanks in advance!

James

Micky · 13-04-11, 05:58 PM

is it the inner or outer boot gone ? the outer is easer and the inner you have to take out the drive shaft but not expencive eather way

jwalshe · 13-04-11, 06:17 PM

Hi Micky!

It's the inner one, I think. When you look down at the engine, it's visible just to the right of the engine.

They're telling me that once they remove the wheel etc, they may need to replace the whole driveshaft. I'll get a full diagnosis tomorrow.

Told me they'd just done the same job on a 2004 A4 and when they took out the driveshaft they had to replace track rods or something. All a bit baffling for a novice like me!

They seem genuine. Through past experience, it's hard to find a specialist you can fully trust!

Micky · 13-04-11, 06:26 PM

if they changed the track rods they must have damaged them taking them off .
its not a hard job if you have just the basic tools .i think you need some Cerclip pliers to get the cv off . it should only take max a couple of hours . dont forget most garages charge £50 an hour

ovalking · 13-04-11, 06:32 PM

If it's only just split I would have thought you'd be ok. I've no experience of a driveshaft failure so not sure what noise it would make. The whine could be something else.

I replaced the inner boot on the nearside shaft of my 100 a few years ago.
Unfortunately I can't recall too much, but it was difficult.
Getting the driveshaft out of the hub was hard (a little too much loctite I think).
Getting the joint off the shaft was hard (trying to find suitable drifts etc.)
I would have replaced the outer boot too while I was at it... but just could not budge the joint.
Both my outer boots are cracked but still holding together for dear life at the moment...

Donswan · 13-04-11, 07:09 PM

I had an outer CV gaiter done on my 1985 100 just before xmas £70 fitted...I'm guessing £60 labour and £10 for the boot...they told me the drive shaft came out easily...I have also had both track rod ends and tracking done at the same place £80 all in....

BIGGYIN · 13-04-11, 07:23 PM

Most smaller job costs,are labour charges.
I'm too tight,I do my own.(My time costs nothing.)

jwalshe · 13-04-11, 08:07 PM

I barely have the ability to change the windscreen wipers. And I was ecstatic with pride when I changed the hydraulic bonnet struts for new ones. So that kinda puts my pathetic DIY skills in context for you ;-)

pimpdriver · 13-04-11, 08:16 PM

Audi 100 driveshafts are bombproof. Not French rubbish.

JMLAudi · 13-04-11, 09:01 PM

Hi mate

Dont worry , we all have to start somewhere at the bottom of the Knowledge tree, in the beginning, you done one job already.thats a start

This is what i remember.......

you got either a 30 or a 32 mm nut holding the drive shaft into hub
its true the factory must have had a overstock of lock tight cos its thick on the splines
its either a 6mm allen key socket or a 8 multispline to remove the 6 bolts holding the driveshaft to gearbox flange.....( the 10 multispline i think came later)

once you lossened the center nut i found it easier to loosen the ball joint and pull the strut away at a angle to get at driveshaft bolts

you push the driveshaft oout of hub ...either with a hub puller or unscrew nut till its flush with end of shaft and apply pressure with a brass drift and a BIG hammer

once out direct driveshaft upwards and towards the gearbox to remove shaft from hub and car

there is a circlip to remove to get inner cv joint from the driveshaft then remove joint off the shaft

NB..........before removing take note of the way its constructed............the inner part,the cage and the outer part.............9/10 times it will fall apart and to make your life easy its best to rebuild correctly the first time................(wish i could explain better)

PULL THE OLD BOOT OFF
PUTTING THE NEW BOOT is fun

Take note of the way the washer on drive shaft is fitted(stops joint on the shaft)

fitting is the reverse of removal

There is possibly a hundred better ways of explaining this ,but i tried my best

Good Luck

Cheers
john

PS................might make things easier when removing driveshaft , is to remove the caliper and brake disc

13-04-11, 07:23 PM	#7
BIGGYIN 4 ring whore! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Merseyside Posts: 7,976	Most smaller job costs,are labour charges. I'm too tight,I do my own.(My time costs nothing.) __________________ q90 B2 Type 85 - q90 B2 Type 85-PROJECT-ABY 20vt KARL. Injection is nice but I'd rather be blown

13-04-11, 08:16 PM	#9
pimpdriver Devon Pastie Muncher Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Calne Wiltshire Posts: 7,530	Audi 100 driveshafts are bombproof. Not French rubbish. __________________ Winter tyres now! Driving the B2 80CL as a daily and LOVING it!!!!

13-04-11, 05:58 PM	#2
Micky Mr Fifty Thousand! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 8,738	is it the inner or outer boot gone ? the outer is easer and the inner you have to take out the drive shaft but not expencive eather way

13-04-11, 06:17 PM	#3
jwalshe Grown up member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: North Birmingham, West Midlands Posts: 58	Hi Micky! It's the inner one, I think. When you look down at the engine, it's visible just to the right of the engine. They're telling me that once they remove the wheel etc, they may need to replace the whole driveshaft. I'll get a full diagnosis tomorrow. Told me they'd just done the same job on a 2004 A4 and when they took out the driveshaft they had to replace track rods or something. All a bit baffling for a novice like me! They seem genuine. Through past experience, it's hard to find a specialist you can fully trust!

13-04-11, 06:26 PM	#4
Micky Mr Fifty Thousand! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 8,738	if they changed the track rods they must have damaged them taking them off . its not a hard job if you have just the basic tools .i think you need some Cerclip pliers to get the cv off . it should only take max a couple of hours . dont forget most garages charge £50 an hour

13-04-11, 06:32 PM	#5
ovalking Grown up member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Ipswich Posts: 272	If it's only just split I would have thought you'd be ok. I've no experience of a driveshaft failure so not sure what noise it would make. The whine could be something else. I replaced the inner boot on the nearside shaft of my 100 a few years ago. Unfortunately I can't recall too much, but it was difficult. Getting the driveshaft out of the hub was hard (a little too much loctite I think). Getting the joint off the shaft was hard (trying to find suitable drifts etc.) I would have replaced the outer boot too while I was at it... but just could not budge the joint. Both my outer boots are cracked but still holding together for dear life at the moment...

13-04-11, 07:09 PM	#6
Donswan Grown up member Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 112	I had an outer CV gaiter done on my 1985 100 just before xmas £70 fitted...I'm guessing £60 labour and £10 for the boot...they told me the drive shaft came out easily...I have also had both track rod ends and tracking done at the same place £80 all in....

13-04-11, 08:07 PM	#8
jwalshe Grown up member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: North Birmingham, West Midlands Posts: 58	I barely have the ability to change the windscreen wipers. And I was ecstatic with pride when I changed the hydraulic bonnet struts for new ones. So that kinda puts my pathetic DIY skills in context for you ;-)

13-04-11, 09:01 PM	#10
JMLAudi Grown up member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Knaresborough/Shipley Posts: 951	Hi mate Dont worry , we all have to start somewhere at the bottom of the Knowledge tree, in the beginning, you done one job already.thats a start This is what i remember....... you got either a 30 or a 32 mm nut holding the drive shaft into hub its true the factory must have had a overstock of lock tight cos its thick on the splines its either a 6mm allen key socket or a 8 multispline to remove the 6 bolts holding the driveshaft to gearbox flange.....( the 10 multispline i think came later) once you lossened the center nut i found it easier to loosen the ball joint and pull the strut away at a angle to get at driveshaft bolts you push the driveshaft oout of hub ...either with a hub puller or unscrew nut till its flush with end of shaft and apply pressure with a brass drift and a BIG hammer once out direct driveshaft upwards and towards the gearbox to remove shaft from hub and car there is a circlip to remove to get inner cv joint from the driveshaft then remove joint off the shaft NB..........before removing take note of the way its constructed............the inner part,the cage and the outer part.............9/10 times it will fall apart and to make your life easy its best to rebuild correctly the first time................(wish i could explain better) PULL THE OLD BOOT OFF PUTTING THE NEW BOOT is fun Take note of the way the washer on drive shaft is fitted(stops joint on the shaft) fitting is the reverse of removal There is possibly a hundred better ways of explaining this ,but i tried my best Good Luck Cheers john PS................might make things easier when removing driveshaft , is to remove the caliper and brake disc