peeling lacquer

pimpdriver · 28-08-07, 10:21 PM

THis is a pic of the boot lid on my 1986 80CL.

It is the original paint as its got the original dealer supplying stickers on it.

By the CL badge I have tried metallic paint t cut, but not with any success.

Anything to try, without respraying it? (I'm after an easy fix if possible, if not, I'm not too bothered).

Cheers,

Steve

Coxy · 29-08-07, 06:35 AM

Once the lacquer has gone, no amount of polishing will save it. T Cut is a very abrasive polish and will only make it worse to be honest. and the clearcoat has already been impaired.
You could wet sand down the area and lay on some clearcoat. Where it's crazed, you will need to wetsand it down to get rind of the crazing marks.
It's not as difficult as it sounds and it's not going to cost much to do it.

pimpdriver · 29-08-07, 07:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coxy

Once the lacquer has gone, no amount of polishing will save it. T Cut is a very abrasive polish and will only make it worse to be honest. and the clearcoat has already been impaired.
You could wet sand down the area and lay on some clearcoat. Where it's crazed, you will need to wetsand it down to get rind of the crazing marks.
It's not as difficult as it sounds and it's not going to cost much to do it.

Thanks for the reply. What kind of wetsand paper? 1200, 2400, by hand or on a sander?

Is "clearcoat" clear lacquer? Is it from Halfords or any particular brand to look for?

Thanks
Steve

Coxy · 29-08-07, 07:23 AM

The clearcoat is clear lacquer, which you can pick up at Halfords and most other motor factors. I use Holts but I'm sure it's no better or worse than any other brand.
For wetsanding and area like that, you could use 1200 as you are trying to remove the clearcoat itself. I use 2000 when doing correction (main reason is cos I've got a shed load of the stuff!!), although it will take longer to remove the clearcoat. The blending in will be the hardest as you're bound to see a line when it's done between the old and the new.
Easiest way it to do the whole lot!!
It will more than likely look very orange peely when done but don't worry about that! Let it harden properly for about 1-2 weeks then you can either carefully wetsand it down or get a polisher and some abrasive polish on it! (Not T Cut! though!)

pimpdriver · 29-08-07, 07:51 AM

polish? someone mentioned G3???

Coxy · 29-08-07, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pimpdriver

polish? someone mentioned G3???

G3 is very abrasive. More of a cutting compound. More used by rotary after paint. It'll do the trick by hand but you'll need a finer polish on top to get rid of the scratches that G3 will leave. Something like Autoglyms Super Resin Polish (SRP) which will give it a good shine. It's harder to get good results by hand but with patience and elbow grease you can start to get somewhere close.

krzracingcouk · 30-08-07, 08:25 AM

i have the same problem on my 1982 Coupe, It started to go about 10 years ago and on the roof is very bad.

I have been back to Audi and they said the Laquer was never ment to last 25 years

So I am tryiing to find someone local to me in the West Country that can do a full respray as I want to treat the old girl

She is a lovely motor and deserves the best.

Stu67 · 30-08-07, 09:19 AM

A guy I know in the paint trade told me earlier metallic VAG cars were all painted with Glasurit 54 line paint and laquer and are well known for this. This is bourne out by the fact that I've had a number of their products over the years including beetles and the audi 100's all of which were as flat as a pancake!. Whenever I got them resprayed I was told not to bother trying to rectify the laquer system but to have it resprayed with one of the newer 2-packs that are much more robust.
Interestingly I was talking to the guy at my local garage the other day and he said that they were having to start using new water based paints because of H&S but these they were not getting good results out of especially for metallics. Dont know how true all this is?, but I would suspect that it may be easier to take the offending articals down the local spray-shop

Coxy · 30-08-07, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stu67

Interestingly I was talking to the guy at my local garage the other day and he said that they were having to start using new water based paints because of H&S but these they were not getting good results out of especially for metallics. Dont know how true all this is?, but I would suspect that it may be easier to take the offending articals down the local spray-shop

Very true! I had to do the one side on the 80CD last week as it had a scrape on it. I got my local paint supplier to mix up some Inari Silver (Mettalic) which they could only supply as a water based paint and when I got it back and laid it on, it was way off even after applying 3 coats of basecoat. In the end I took it to the garage opposite me and they managed to get some Solvent based paint from one of their suppiers who still has some in stock and managed to get a perfect match, but they said once it's gone, they can't get any more of it so they mixed up an extra 1/2 litre for me for a "rainy day!"

Stu67 · 30-08-07, 11:50 AM

Bloody Europe probably, a sad day when you can't gas yourself in the privacy of your own garage !

30-08-07, 08:25 AM	#7
krzracingcouk Grown up member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Plympton, Plymouth Posts: 471	i have the same problem on my 1982 Coupe, It started to go about 10 years ago and on the roof is very bad. I have been back to Audi and they said the Laquer was never ment to last 25 years So I am tryiing to find someone local to me in the West Country that can do a full respray as I want to treat the old girl She is a lovely motor and deserves the best. __________________ Audi = Acceleration Under Demonic Infulence Current Car - Audi Coupe GT 5S 1982 Model Mark 1 Been in the family now for 30+ years. Restoration Thread Also Weekend Cars - Audi A4 Touring Car, Audi A4 DTM

29-08-07, 06:35 AM	#2
Coxy 4 Ring Mafia Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: on the side of a hill in Shropshire! Posts: 28,215	Once the lacquer has gone, no amount of polishing will save it. T Cut is a very abrasive polish and will only make it worse to be honest. and the clearcoat has already been impaired. You could wet sand down the area and lay on some clearcoat. Where it's crazed, you will need to wetsand it down to get rind of the crazing marks. It's not as difficult as it sounds and it's not going to cost much to do it.

29-08-07, 07:23 AM	#4
Coxy 4 Ring Mafia Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: on the side of a hill in Shropshire! Posts: 28,215	The clearcoat is clear lacquer, which you can pick up at Halfords and most other motor factors. I use Holts but I'm sure it's no better or worse than any other brand. For wetsanding and area like that, you could use 1200 as you are trying to remove the clearcoat itself. I use 2000 when doing correction (main reason is cos I've got a shed load of the stuff!!), although it will take longer to remove the clearcoat. The blending in will be the hardest as you're bound to see a line when it's done between the old and the new. Easiest way it to do the whole lot!! It will more than likely look very orange peely when done but don't worry about that! Let it harden properly for about 1-2 weeks then you can either carefully wetsand it down or get a polisher and some abrasive polish on it! (Not T Cut! though!)

29-08-07, 07:51 AM	#5
pimpdriver Devon Pastie Muncher Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Calne Wiltshire Posts: 7,530	polish? someone mentioned G3???

30-08-07, 09:19 AM	#8
Stu67 Grown up member Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 117	A guy I know in the paint trade told me earlier metallic VAG cars were all painted with Glasurit 54 line paint and laquer and are well known for this. This is bourne out by the fact that I've had a number of their products over the years including beetles and the audi 100's all of which were as flat as a pancake!. Whenever I got them resprayed I was told not to bother trying to rectify the laquer system but to have it resprayed with one of the newer 2-packs that are much more robust. Interestingly I was talking to the guy at my local garage the other day and he said that they were having to start using new water based paints because of H&S but these they were not getting good results out of especially for metallics. Dont know how true all this is?, but I would suspect that it may be easier to take the offending articals down the local spray-shop

30-08-07, 11:50 AM	#10
Stu67 Grown up member Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 117	Bloody Europe probably, a sad day when you can't gas yourself in the privacy of your own garage !