Central Locking Pump - '82 200 5E

one trick phoney · 25-09-08, 10:58 AM

I seem to have a gob full of 'teething troubles' right now - just went to start the old girl ('82 200 5e) and no response from the central locking. aha - flat battery I thought (fitted radio over weekend) - but no, car starts fine. When I get the boot open I can hear that the central locking pump is going nuts (strained sort of whining). Disconnect/rconnect - no change. Anyone know where I could source a replacement (nothing on GSF or Euro carparts) - is it common with any other models - could i 'jury-rig' another one thats not exactly the same - assumimg they all work on the same principle. Any advice gratefully recieved - i'd love to get up to 'cosford before christmas!

20vcqdriver · 25-09-08, 11:14 AM

If its the Vacuum operated pump with 3 pin connector I can repair them. Normally either the diaphram or vanes in the pump clogged up. Mine usually last 2 years after being fettled and needs sorting again. If your'e technically minded it not too difficult a job to strip the unit down. Clean all the parts and re-assemble.

one trick phoney · 25-09-08, 11:21 AM

Thanks - how do i strip it down then?

20vcqdriver · 25-09-08, 11:43 AM

If its an 82' car its likey to be a rubber diaphram version. These are the hardest to sort and it maybe that the diaphram inside has perished. Use a pair of screwdrivers in the base to release the plastic clips and remove the base, then disconnect the small pipe to the outlet. At this stage check the pump motor bearing has not melted. A common problem if the pump has been left running for long periods. If this has happened you will need to remanufacture a support for the motor bearing before going any further. With a screwdriver you then need to slowly dismantle the pump noting where all the little bits of plastic go, once stripped check the diaphram. If split You can make a copy using some 1mm thick rubber mat. Very fiddly. Assuming it just needs a good clean fit the rubber in the other way round so you use the other un worn side and re-assemble. I have a test set here that I made up to test them on the bench but trying it on the car afterwards should show whether you have fixed it !!!

one trick phoney · 25-09-08, 01:15 PM

you make it sound so simple! - i'll have a go at the weekend. Many Thanks.

4v6 · 25-09-08, 01:33 PM

I also repaired one of these when the pump went berserk.

It turned out to be an electrolytic capacitor on the board that sets the run time of the pump.
Either (iirc) 10 or 100microfarad item at 16volts working voltage (theres only one if memory serves).
They dry up and lose their correct properties- easy fixer.

one trick phoney · 25-09-08, 02:52 PM

thank god old cars are so much simpler eh?

25-09-08, 11:43 AM	#4
20vcqdriver 4 ring whore! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Wirral Posts: 3,910	Repairs If its an 82' car its likey to be a rubber diaphram version. These are the hardest to sort and it maybe that the diaphram inside has perished. Use a pair of screwdrivers in the base to release the plastic clips and remove the base, then disconnect the small pipe to the outlet. At this stage check the pump motor bearing has not melted. A common problem if the pump has been left running for long periods. If this has happened you will need to remanufacture a support for the motor bearing before going any further. With a screwdriver you then need to slowly dismantle the pump noting where all the little bits of plastic go, once stripped check the diaphram. If split You can make a copy using some 1mm thick rubber mat. Very fiddly. Assuming it just needs a good clean fit the rubber in the other way round so you use the other un worn side and re-assemble. I have a test set here that I made up to test them on the bench but trying it on the car afterwards should show whether you have fixed it !!!

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25-09-08, 11:14 AM	#2
20vcqdriver 4 ring whore! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Wirral Posts: 3,910	If its the Vacuum operated pump with 3 pin connector I can repair them. Normally either the diaphram or vanes in the pump clogged up. Mine usually last 2 years after being fettled and needs sorting again. If your'e technically minded it not too difficult a job to strip the unit down. Clean all the parts and re-assemble.

25-09-08, 11:21 AM	#3
one trick phoney Grown up member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Ilford, Essex Posts: 76	Thanks - how do i strip it down then?

25-09-08, 01:15 PM	#5
one trick phoney Grown up member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Ilford, Essex Posts: 76	you make it sound so simple! - i'll have a go at the weekend. Many Thanks.

25-09-08, 01:33 PM	#6
4v6 Ex Member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 5,565	I also repaired one of these when the pump went berserk. It turned out to be an electrolytic capacitor on the board that sets the run time of the pump. Either (iirc) 10 or 100microfarad item at 16volts working voltage (theres only one if memory serves). They dry up and lose their correct properties- easy fixer.

25-09-08, 02:52 PM	#7
one trick phoney Grown up member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Ilford, Essex Posts: 76	thank god old cars are so much simpler eh?