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Old 30-05-10, 03:55 PM   #1
doninphi
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Default Lowering throwing the rear end out of allignment...

I noticed today while cleaning my new ride that the rear left wheel sticks out more than the right, looking underneath I now see why, basically the arm that runs diagonally from the rear beam is pushing it out the lower it goes.

So I'm now gonna have to shorten this arm to get the wheels even and the car straight again. Anyone else noticed this? Or do you all have crabs? Lol sorry I mean do you all run lowered 80's that crab?
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Old 30-05-10, 04:36 PM   #2
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To lower a car 100% correctly mate,you need to shorten that "Panhard Rod".
Its fairly safe to assume you cant buy them I guess,but can get one made up perhaps.

I just remember this info well from when I lowered a car I had once.The factory lowering kit was a kit comprising of the springs,shorter shocks,shorter anti roll bar links.

The rod will push the axle to one side as it compensates for the sideways movement of the axle IIRC.

Perhaps the bushes on your rear axle are also showing their true wear as there is more compression and stress on the rear axle and its associated componentage.

Sorry for the vagueness,its not the gin,I just havent needed to know this stuff for a while now,bit rusty old bean!

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Old 30-05-10, 05:04 PM   #3
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Default Lowering throwing the rear end out of allignment...

No you're exactly right, I just wondered if shorter ones were available! Didn't know the name of the rod either.

Think I'll whip mine off and chop/shorten it. Will have to guestimate how much!! will be conservative!
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Old 30-05-10, 05:49 PM   #4
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OK,I have remembered how much to shorten mate.

If you lower 4cm=40mm,shorten the Panhard Rod by the same amount.

Glad to have been of assistance with your vintage beast,my man.

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Old 31-05-10, 02:58 PM   #5
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chop the rod, re-weld in some chunky thread-bar and make it adjustable. Then if your not in the right place you can spin the nuts and take up any slack
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Old 31-05-10, 03:44 PM   #6
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Default Lowering throwing the rear end out of allignment...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickman View Post
chop the rod, re-weld in some chunky thread-bar and make it adjustable. Then if your not in the right place you can spin the nuts and take up any slack
Now that is a hell of a plan! Might do that!

40mm reduction seems a lot, I'd hve thought it would be half the distance it is out by or there abouts. Eg if one wheel sticks out 20mm more than the other remove 10mm to even it, tho i suppose you'd have to take into account the angle it's at etc...

Thanks for the tip tho! Hope you're right! Will try for the adjustable bar idea...
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Old 06-06-10, 10:00 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickman View Post
chop the rod, re-weld in some chunky thread-bar and make it adjustable. Then if your not in the right place you can spin the nuts and take up any slack
I am with this man, means you can get the car laser aligned and just tell the operator what nut to wind for "crabbing" adjustment
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Old 15-06-10, 05:00 PM   #8
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Default Lowering throwing the rear end out of allignment...

See my other thread but if you plan to do this for a 50mm drop it's actually about a 10mm removal but I would totally recommend making it adjustable or else you'll struggle to get it bang on.

You'll also need the car jacked up on the axle so it's sitting at ride height only lifted up. Then get a mate to push on the car to allow you to get the bolt in!! Unless you make it adjustable while in position.
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