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Old 13-08-09, 10:56 PM   #3
madwolf_uk
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Join Date: Aug 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msh View Post
First, get distributor from NG/NF/AAR, something like that. Distributor from KV have vacuum and centrifugal advance mechanisms and u don't need that, because it's done by ignition ECU. Second, I'm new to R5 but I think that distributor mark must fit when camshaft is in opposite position - whan crankshaft is with mark but camshaft isn't. Maybe I'm wrong. Because I have experience with R4 [actually I was able to set distributor precisely when assembling my 3A without running it] I did just as u - only after some unsuccessful starts and timing corrections it managed to run @ ~500 rpm, then I turned earlier ignition until it started to run well.
How about knock sensor itself - did it have any cracks? If it's cracked, u can throw it out and get new one, it isn't expensive, I bought mine for something like 50 pounds, only when installing, that bolt must be tightened "with feel" - autodata states 10-15 nm, if I remember correctly. Difference - my former 3A, which never run very vell, without knock sensor at that time was able for 130-140 kmph vmax, with brend new knock sensor 170 kmph
Struggling to get the right distributor for it, but also getting conflicting advice about the KV one working or not.. have tried it 180 degress out but that doesnt seem to work any better either.

Knock sensor and dodgy lead will get replaced, just cant see either of them impacting on the idle issue, and want to save funds till thats sorted really, just in case i need em!

Anyone any other ideas for me? Have tried the ISV off my S2 and that seemed to make a marginal difference, but that could also be from cleaning the air filter and tightening a couple of clips as well.....
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