[Hanuman]

The discussion regarding the inlet temperature sensor so far has revolved around the fact the actual resistance is quite low, but with quite a wide acceptable range;11-31ohms, and nominal resistance of about 22ohms. It's been the subject of much debate about its importance. Several knowledgeable folks have achieved a working result using the 22ohm fudge. This is the nominal resistance that the ECU sees, and changes in relation to air temperature. Giving the ECU a resistance of 22ohms means that it won't control for air temperature, but in general, the WR isn't being stressed that highly in most conditions, anyway.

In your case, Dave, the actual resistance is completely missing. Take a look at the photo of Conor's sensor, (other thread) and you'll see the remnants of the 'resistor', which should be across the ends of the 2 prongs shielded by the plastic.
Where yours has gone is anyone's guess, but gone it has. So there is actual an open circuit. When I measured across the terminals, the reading was the circuit impedance in the ECU.
Hence, the 22ohm resistor is an option. At least for now.

The other issue you have, is the undocumented and uncontrolled mods on the car, which may well include a doctored ECU, so you need to take some care, here also.