Ok, we can continue. See that second picture? That was test of pneumatic part of cruise control. As you can see, you need two wires to connect pump to battery, of course, with the plug unplugged, and some metallic object to connect power briefly to another contact. So, the pin on the pump, which has blue/red wire attached is pump motor, green/blue is pump valve and blue/red is common - what you has to do - first test both parts by connecting battery ground to common pin and try apply power to both other pins - valve, of course, should click and pump has small motor, so you understand what kind of sounds you should expect. In case if schematic used by me is different from your car, just use your wires and see what is what - pump is polarity insensitive, so nothing bad will happen in any wire combination - unless, of course, you will short your wires

Once you have found that your pump is fully working, attach in a way so that wires won't fall off, ground to common pin and power to valve, then use some metallic object to short valve and pump contacts to make pump work and see what happens. If the throttle opens and quickly closes when you remove power from pump [not the valve], get some pliers and clamp the hose that goes to interior and try again. If now throttle stays open, remove the shelf that is above drivers legs, both pedal switches are attached to pedal bracket - unplug the wires, unplug the hoses and screw them out. Carefully open them, clean contacts and everything, afterwards apply moderate amount of grease [yep, that's right - grease that stays viscous] on the part that closes hose and seat of that part. After putting the switch together, test it by sucking with your mouth. Also make sure they are adjusted correctly and there are no free play in pedals - after I put together my cruise control, it didn't worked until I found that my clutch pedal has free play so when I release it gently, it stays far enough to make switch keep open, so now, until I've solved the problem, I just pull back clutch pedal before engaging cruise control. After that's fine, you can test them again - long enough - I tested mine for hour [keeping the car with pump valve engaged with me absent, of course] and got zero throttle movements - in previous try I got throttle that got halfway closed after 10 minutes.
If the system keeps pressure but still cruise control do not work, we can move on to electric part. Ah, and in case if the pump does not work, it can be opened and sometimes fixed - I've pump in spare which spent several years in junkyard below open skies - I had only to open it and clean valve, which was stuck.