no heat-92 audi 80 SE
 

my father has a 92 audi 80 2litre SE and there is no heat coming from the inside heater.... he has just had the thermostat changed and the heater hose with the bleeder fitted.... there doesnt seem to be much of a flow coming from the engine into the heater matrix...and as far as i can tell it isnt airlocked... is it possible that the water gallerys are blocked up... the car doesnt over heat or anything when being driven... flippin freezin in this cold weather... any ideas....

Broken heater control cable or knob???

How high temp goes? "New" isn't always synonymous to "good".

Highly unlikely, dashboard vents flap is the one which has tendency to fail.

on my 100 the rotary knob pulls a steel cable, the plastic bit which attached the cable had broken.

Try finding the valve which directs hot water to the heater matrix (in the engine bay) and try opening and closing it by hand.

With such valve in B3/B4 is equipped only cars with climate control.

this hose is NLA... Iasked yesterday at my dealers because the 90 quattro has the same issues as you.

how hot are the hoses getting ? I had problems with the 20valve yesterday and think it had an air lock, i didn't use the bleed screw on the hose as it wouldn't move, so left rad cap off, heater on hot rev engine at about 3000rpm till the fan cut in this got rid of my air lock and the heater is hot today. If your hoses are hot (both) see if the flap that directs the heat over the matrix is working, you need to take the glove box or drivers shelf out to see it

You have a new stat. is the heater hot while not driving the car, then gets cold when driving ? if yes try blocking the lower half of the rad off with card, it could well be over cooling

It is more interesting to do this as driving a little bit, revving engine with full clock. Of course, on public roads it isn't legal... :D
This may be solution for VAZ [pardon, LADA] not Audi :finger: My A80 driving @ 60 mph in -15c still had coolant temperature of 80c - thanks to working termostat. Dunno about UK, here in latvia it isn't hard to buy termostat, which is crap.

hmm....so if you took the rad plug out and run at normal operating temp, with the heater on full,did you rev the engine at 3000 rev until the water in the radiator started to bubble out of the small brass bolt hole, then return bolt into hole and tighten?
then top up the expansion tank if necessary?

cheers:tup:

I changed the State. last week and when filling the system had the rad bleed screw out started the car and once water flowed from it refitted it . heater worked ok but stopped again, so yesterday i removed the rad cap topped the res. up to max and held at revs till the fan cut in, lots of bubbles came out and the heater worked again refitted the cap and that was it . been out today and still nice and warm